GSXR front end finished

[DougieG]

I'm changing the wheel too do I need to buy magnets or are they hidden in the wheel somewhere?

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[Bibio]

no they are not hidden as there are none.

the SV has a speedo drive on the front wheel that is a magnetic. you need to mimic the pulses from the drive by other means.

this means you need to glue evenly spaced magnets in the middle of the front disc buttons and use a hall effect sensor to pick up the pulses. the hall effect sensor needs a bracket made up to attach to it to the fork lower positioned so the middle of the magnets is inline with the middle of the hall effect sensor at around 10mm gap between them.

as the wheel rotates the hall effect sensor picks up the pulses from the magnets and transfers this to the speedo.

you also need to splice the old speedo drive cable to the new hall effect sensor.

or just by one of my kits, no they aint cheep but they work.

[DougieG]

Have you got a website or deets on your kit?

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[Bibio]

no website as i only sell my stuff on here.

the kit includes:
laser cut stainless steel disc with magnets that attaches to the rear sprocket bolts.
stainless steel swingarm marker plates with a drop bracket for the sensor.
custom sensor with full end to end cable (i had these specially made up) with OEM connector for the loom.

unlike traditional speedo drive installs that run off the front disc mines runs off the rear sprocket.

PM me if you want more details and prices.

[650]

Originally Posted by Bibio

no need to replace the bearings but tapered are nice.

torque settings are for fresh installed bearings, this is to make sure that the races are fully seated.

yes you will need a speedo drive fix on the 650. depending on the number of buttons on the front discs you can use magnets in them, this needs to be divisible by 4, depending on the year of SV you need either 4 or 8 evenly spaced magnets in the disc buttons. if you have an odd number of buttons on the discs then your out of luck and you will need something like my speedo drive kit.

What torque would you suggest for used bearings? I've scoured manuals and advice from all over the shop and I've never come across anything other than '90Nm for the top yoke nut, 80Nm for the top lock nut, 40Nm for the steering nut and then back it off quarter to half a turn'

You can't go by "feel" when it comes to making sure the front end is locked in place properly, surely.

[650]

Originally Posted by DougieG

I have an adjustable c spanner incoming so should be ok thanks. Also have some woodcraft riser clip ons coming in which i can swap between normal rise and an extra inch for a bit of longer ride stuff

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The C-spanner won't give you a torque reading, I'm just sayin'. The castle nut's there if you need it. Would rather know you're nipping everything up correctly than guess working it, the front end kind of matters!

[DougieG]

Excellent point! Where are you?

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[650]

Just outside Greenwich. About an hour from you if you pin the throttle. Or I can send it, all I'd ask is the £20 I paid for it is sent to my Paypal then I can give it back to you once I receive the castle nut back. Just in case you move to Australia/get imprisoned for beating up a bus driver and things like that. Not that I don't trust you

[650]

Bibio, are you still doing those shims for the rear swing arm?

[Bibio]

yes but they dont fit the thou.

btw you can adjust headstock bearings by 'feel' and i have seen a few being notched due to people using a torque wrench. not so much with taper needle.

if the races have been seated prior then all you need to do is tighten the bottom locknut while turning the front end from side to side till you feel a resistance. this lets the grease get squeezed out so the balls and races are in contact with grease around them. you then back off 1/8-1/4 turn and tighten the next locknut taking care not to move the bottom lock nut, you then install the top yoke and tighten the top nut. with the pressure bearing down from the upper lock nut and top yoke nut it should give no play when giving the forks a good push pull at the bottom.