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Old 16-05-06, 07:44 PM   #1
gc350
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Default Cam Chain adjusters, do they stick?

I havent used my 1999 sv since before chistmas, it didn't rattle then, but has been stood up since unused, i took it for its mot the other day, and cant help but notice that there is a distinct noise, which i am assuming is the cam chain. Do the automatic adjusters get stuck when left unused for a while? How do i sort it if this is the case? Any help would be great.

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Old 16-05-06, 11:47 PM   #2
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They do go wrong... But tbh I wouldn't have thought being sat would be an issue. A bit of rattle's not really a problem, but where do you draw the line? I'll be honest, I've no idea, so i aim for no cam chain rattle at all, and usually it's doable. Right now, it sounds like a maraca though
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Old 17-05-06, 05:21 AM   #3
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You could check to see if they are sticking. Take the top cover off the adjuster. They unscrew. Stick a thin blade screwdriver in and wind the adjuster back up. Then release the screwdriver, if you listen carefully you should hear them ping back.

I warn you though, the front one is nigh on impossible to get too. Most people have found it easier to actually take the adjusters off to free them up. If you do go down this route, be very careful as they have gaskets that can break. If you break one they will leak oil and you will have to replace the gaskets.
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Old 17-05-06, 07:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The voices in the head of empty
All for a curvy....

Rear Cam Chain Tensioner:

Remove right hand side rearset, I tuck mine up by the exhaust. get a 10mm socket on a shortish extension bar, locate the bolt (by touch, you won't be able to see anything), and remove it, it's pretty short, but make sure you're turning it the right way (anticlockwise) to remove, the body of the tensioner is pretty soft and the thread is not full, so it's pretty easy to strip. Insert longish thin flat blade screwdriver, turn clockwise until it stops (retracts plunger fully) then remove screwdriver, plunger will return (hopefully having unstuck). Replace bolt and rearset, all done.

Front Cam Chain Tensioner:

Lift tank, remove airbox. Tensioner is in between carbs and frame. Remove bolt head (10mm spanner required here, little or no chance of getting socket in here). If you have a magic screwdriver that will somehow negotiate the frame, do the same as rear one, if not you'll have to pop it out. Use a allen key (5mm) with a ball head, as frame is in the way. Once started do not bail out, the tensioner will start extending and any attempt to put it back without retracting it first may kill the chain. Remove tensioner, make a tool to hold the plunger in place (there is one on the FAQ page, I made mine out of a spare bit of sheet steel, now has added beer bottle cap so I can retract the plunger without removing the tensioner, and a bit of string passed through a hole to be added soon as removing the thing from the tensioner can be a bit of a pain). With the plunger fully retracted, replace, remove tool, replace bolt (taking care not to cross thread) + rebuild bike. I've found it is often easier to remove the LHS fairing panel with the S, makes access a lot easier.

Rear is dead easy, front is more fiddly than difficult. If they still rattle, you can swap them over (rear removes the same as the front), since they (probably) wear at different rates, they might not get stuck in their new home. I'll see if I can check the dimensions of my tensioner tool and post them as it is a useful thing to have.

MT
Check the chain too, lack of oil and standing for a while may have introduced tight spots, causing the chain to slap about.

MT
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Old 17-05-06, 07:10 AM   #5
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Perfect. I was just to lazy to bother with any real explanations. Oh that good Ole search function again
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Old 17-05-06, 09:33 AM   #6
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Maplins and Homebase sell a small side-armed scrwedriver with a thumbscrwe on it, which is perfect for doing the front cylinder... It's still fiddly putting the cap back on though, especially with the carbs in place.
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