Green coolant - what brand?

[Blapper]

That's brilliant info SV650rules, Thanks.

Funny though, Curvy's go back to 1999 - a bit close for comfort isn't it!

[Crawling Finn]

Really only yellow metal part could be the thermostat, and perhaps some sealing washers on plugs, neither of which would cause any catastrophic failure if they corrode. You will be fine with any silicate free OAT coolant.

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Blapper

That's brilliant info SV650rules, Thanks.

Funny though, Curvy's go back to 1999 - a bit close for comfort isn't it!

Most bikes have had aluminium engines for quite a while now (can anyone think of a water cooled bike engine with iron block or a wet iron liner ? - SV650 engine has electroplated hard liner straight onto aluminium of the bore, so not even a dry liner involved ) , some cars still had iron blocks and copper radiators later than bikes which would need IAT / silicate. Would be bad practice to use copper or brass fittings in aluminium engine as that combination is the worst for electrolytic / galvanic corrosion. I know Honda have always warned owners not to use a coolant containing silicates / phosphates in their engines.

[DomP]

Got me thinking I need to leave my Jacks Daniels and go check what coolant I put in mine. I'm sure I used one for alloy engines, I should know I probably spent a week researching and deciding what to use.

[andrewsmith]

Most commercially available coolant is for aluminium blocks.

To add my 2p worth, anything that is for modern Audi's work's. It's how I've got it in the motor factors, was told by mechanic to ask that way

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[Blapper]

I suppose yellow metals are expensive these days so they are unlikely to be used if they aren't essential. My concern is bearings material in the water pump mainly.

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Blapper

I suppose yellow metals are expensive these days so they are unlikely to be used if they aren't essential. My concern is bearings material in the water pump mainly.

I would not sweat too much, use silicate free OAT 50/50 premix which is perfect for aluminium engines and radiators (manufacturer use distilled water, using 'hard' UK tap water can result in clogging up your system with limescale etc.). Using premix is safest as it takes the worry out of wondering if you mixed it correctly as well.

Silicates and phosphates are implicated in damaging water pump seals, the ball or roller bearings themselves should never see any coolant (if they do, that is when problems start).

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

SV650 engine has electroplated hard liner straight onto aluminium of the bore, so not even a dry liner involved

only the gladdy and newer sv has that.

[madcockney]

I agree with Bibio on this that 5 years and OAT is suitable. Even though the K3 workshop manual says change every two year everything that I have read for both cars and bikes regarding OAT (long life) states 5 years. I put Comma G30 in mine and will top up if necessary, though never appears to need it, and a complete change in 4-5 years. Why G30 well that is approved by VAG for my car so got one suitable to do both vehicles. I then found that the car is serviced using a bulk standard two year product that "meets the specification" so could have got away with a cheaper product.

[Bibio]

unless your using antifreeze designed for older cars which are rare these days then pretty much any off the shelf antifreeze is compatible for modern engines. stay away from those 'for life' fancy coolants as they cant be mixed or topped up (unless with the same stuff) and are damned expensive.