Curvy power problems

[daktulos]

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

Do a Diode test on the R/R.The procedure is in the manual and pull apart and clean the in-line block connectors.My Curvy had two but I've now removed them as per,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/Mosf...sfetUniRR.html

Cheers - I tested them as per the ElectroSport flowchart, and all was good. The blocks were pretty good, voltages were taken from the R/R side of the block.

Originally Posted by embee

I think you're spot on. You should be seeing 14 point something volts when revved. At this point I'd suggest stop trying to over-analyse and simply replace the R/R.

Thanks for your advice. If replacing, I'd probably go with an Electrex one, which I've seen mentioned before - it is the right size and has the right connection blocks, so would be simple.

I did a few more tests today, including current. I won't bore everyone with all the numbers, but at 5000rpm the bike was drawing 2.1A from the R/R and 4.0A with the headlight on. That's less than the 4.5A expected for the headlight, so (at the battery's current charge level) the battery will be discharging to power the headlight.

Not really conclusive. So, as embee suggests, I'm going to stop over-analysing it. I'll either live with topping up the battery occasionally, or buy a new R/R.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by daktulos

Cheers - I tested them as per the ElectroSport flowchart, and all was good. The blocks were pretty good, voltages were taken from the R/R side of the block.

.

Even if they look good you should clean them.I use a small electrical screwdriver with some 500 grit paper wrapped around and poke into the females and scrape them all clean.Then blast with Switch/Contact cleaner and in my case then treat with ACF50.

Halfords do some Contact cleaner if you need some local,

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/en...cleaner-500ml#

[johnnyrod]

I'm with Embee, RR is kaput

[daktulos]

So, in case anyone was wondering, I've finally replaced the RR with an Electrex one (very straight forward - slightly larger, but fits. It bypasses the little 3-phase extension cable which I left in place, and needed two new longer bolts).

I now have around 14.4V at the battery at idle & 5000rpm & a noticeably brighter headlight. Case closed!

[mikerj]

Batteries simply don't work as well in the cold, and the impact of low temperatures becomes far more noticeable when the battery is nearing the end of it's life. As others have mentioned, measuring the battery voltage under cranking will tell you how healthy it is, and measuring it with the engine running will give an indication of how well your charging system is working.


Another possibility is that you have a high resistance connection somewhere within the high current starter circuit e.g. loose or corroded terminals, bad solenoid, or the starter itself is getting tired.

[daktulos]

Originally Posted by mikerj

Another possibility is that you have a high resistance connection somewhere within the high current starter circuit e.g. loose or corroded terminals, bad solenoid, or the starter itself is getting tired.

Thanks, but it's sorted now.