Buying an SV650, what do I need to know?

I've got my test booked for a week on Monday and I've got my heart set on an SV650.

I haven't sorted out my budget properly yet, but I'm hoping to be able to spend approx £1500-£1800

I'd like an early Pointy (silver frame), but will probably end up going for a Curvy (faired).

What do I need to look out for (bad bits, good bits, etc)?

No you're not seeing double (a duplicate of this post is in the general bikes section).

I dont think you'll get a pointy for that money, certainly not a good one. But! You should get an excellent curvy for that sorta wonga.

Look out for things like blown fork seals (this'll be evident as oil on the forks), oil leaks from the engine and all that, a worn chain (slack, rusty, and bad condition sprockets with teeth that look like hooks)...look out for badley corroded downpipes, although some corrosion is acceptable. Start the bike from cold (might need some choke for a curvy, but it shoud fire up first time no hassle). If you can get someone to test ride it, or even yourself have a ride, then you can check for warped discs atc (this'll feel like a pulsing at the lever). Oh, do check the brakes carefully - they are prone to corrosion if not looked after.

I'm sure someone will tell you the right things to look out for in a minute!

Matt

Like all Suzukis, the SV is mechanically robust but prone to rust. Mechanicals are no worse than any other machine but doesn't shrug off hard winter use.

Carb icing on curvies. You would be very lucky to find a cheap pointy for that price. But you will have the pick of the best curvies. I would go for a low mileage mint curvy.

[fizzwheel]

Hi and welcome

1. Look at the front forks are they corroded and chipped, This is pretty common on a high milleage SV thats been used in all weathers. Its a good indication of what the bikes been used for and also if the milleage is correct. i.e if the forks are chipped and manky but the milleage on the bike is low then start asking questions. Same goes for the handlebars and footpegs.

2. Have a look at the disks and pads. What condition are they in. SV's are known for the brakes sticking on if its not been looked after. Again this is especially relevant if its been used through winter and neglected.

3. Look at the chain and sprocket and the tyres. how much life do they have left in them, and slack worn chain with hooked teeth on the sprocket mean that its going to want changing soon.

3. Electrics, some people including me have had trouble with blown fuses caused by the wiring loom rubbing on the tank. So ask about that to.

4. If its a private sale, if you can get a sneaky peak in the owners garage, have a look for stuff like, paddock stands, a good set of tools, cleaning products, chain lube etc on the shelf, It'll give you an idea of how the current owner looks after the bike.

5. Sometimes if the bikes ridden in heavy rain water gets into the front spark plug hole and then it'll drop down onto one cylinder and run intermitantly between one two cylinders which isnt fun. A fenda extenda will sort this or some silicone grease on the front HT lead will also do the trick, have a search for the subject its been covered loads of times and its fairly common. Ask the owner if they have had trouble with the bike in the wet, its not a huge problem and its easy to sort.

Dont be put off by high milleage as long as you can see that the servicing has been done, either by stamps in the service manual or receipts for parts used. A high milleage bike thats been ridden is better than a low milleage bike thats been stood for ages and has got all seized up.

Use things like worn tyres, chain and sprocket as bargaining tools to get the price down. Make sure you do a HPI check to make sure that theres no outstanding finance or the bike hasnt been involved in a accident at some point in its life.

Remember that non standard parts dont increase the value of the bike. So dont let the bling bits distract you from the of the bike, better IMHO to buy a mint standard bike than sh*tter with loads of aftermarket parts bolted onto it. Things like a hugger, a scotoiler are sensible modifications though as is a race can but only if you like the sound / look of it.

If you're not sure, Walk away from the bike, or take somebody with you who does know what they are looking at. Make sure you look at plenty of bikes and never buy the first one you look at.

I agree with whats been said above, you'll be looking for a curvey one in that price range.

HTH

I would say thats common sense with buying any bike!but alls u need to no bout the SV is that it is amazing to ride and u will have hours of fun on it wether r not u r just heading into work r either u r touring!!!!ENJOY!!!!

You'd get a pointy for the top end of that no trouble on eBay. Before anyone says anything about eBay being dodgy etc, I've bought a car and two bikes without problems from eBay. The golden rules are:
1. Vehicle check - it's about £3 through ebay and it is identical to and provided by HPI.
2. If it's an absolute dog when you go to pay for it and it says on the page that it's in great condition, you are well within your rights to walk away.

Fizzwheel is spot on.

Just a thought I paid £1200 for a 2001 Black cuvey, SV650S-Y. Which was cheep, it has 10 months Tax, 8 Months Mot, New tired chain and sprocket, FSH, lots of reciepts, tank bag, lock, dry lube, etc.

If your budget is £1800 you might find a good one for about £1200 - £1500. You could used the extra cash for servicing, or tools (paddock stand, optimate etc) or better riding gear to protect yourself or perhaps advanced lessons.

Just a thought, a well looked after older bike is better than a ratty newer one.

Cheers.