Speedy Claire`s Mini Scottish Adventure (sponsored by Ambre Solaire and fixer-peg.co.uk)

My apologies for the quality of the pics... I`ve still yet to work out how to take the best pics on my camera and also I don`t think the method I use of reducing photo size method is the best!

After a fantastic weekend at GMII I decided to set off for a few days on my own.

After leaving Tyndrum Lodge I traveled northwards with Puny Express and Almarko. We rode up the A82 through Glencoe, Fort William and Spean Bridge stopping for a short while at Gairlochy on the Caledonian Canal so the guys could get some pics (my camera battery was flat!) and whilst there we were lucky enough to see 3 boats coming through the lock gates.

The sun was absolutely glorious and I got my first bit of sun burn, also made my first mistake and dropped my bike whilst stationery. We were setting off and I was astride the bike turning it round on some gravel.. I braked, put my foot down but there was no floor just gravel which gave way and over I went onto the right hand side. Thankfully Puny was with me and him and another guy came running to help me. I was mortified but thankfully no damage to the bike and I realised that perhaps the amount of luggage I was carrying was a tad excessive as ordinarily I wouldn`t have a problem holding the bike up but laden up like she was I had no chance of recovering her when she tipped over.

Onwards we went up the A82 to Invergarry where I was parting company with the guys. We parked up on a pavement outside the hotel which I`m totally ashamed to say is where I made mistake No. 2. We were turning around and I was faced with a choice of pushing my bike backwards up a gravel ramp or turning it on the pavement. Bad memories of the gravel half an hour earlier disturbed me so I opted for the pavement. All started well then something caught my eye and for some reason I stopped whilst my front wheel was on the road and my rear on the pavement. I put my foot down but obviously there was no where to put it, such is the side effect of short legs! Down she went again… this time to balance things out she went down on the left hand side. My god was I embarrassed… dropping the bike once I could shrug my shoulders to but to drop it twice within half an hour!!!! Unbelievable. This time my gear lever snapped but with some pride I announced I had a fixer peg YAY!!!!!!! Almarko skillfully fitted the peg, we reattached all my luggage and we prepared for the off. However my bike was having none of it and wouldn`t start. The knowledgable lads thought it would be the anti tilt mechanism on the bike but alas it wasn`t. My clutch mechanism was inspected and my ignition taken apart. To say I`m glad I had the guys with me is an understatement. They were both fantastic and they didn`t complain once about being delayed. If i`d have been on my own I`d have had to give up and call the AA out to relay me and the bike home. We must have been there for around 2 hours?? when they had the bright idea to start my bike by doing something with the ignition enabling me to short it out with a spanner on my battery terminals. After the initial shock of sparks flying everywhere I soon got used to starting the bike this way and off I set again.

I headed up the A82 through Fort Augustus and around the shores of Loch Ness. At Inverness I joined the A96 to Elgin which was my stop for the night and I arrived at around 6.30pm totally knackered and dripping with sweat (yuk!) The roads were fantastic especially the road around the shore of Loch Ness. I`d wished my camera had been charged as I missed some fantastic photo opportunities. Twice en route I was asked by fellow bikers if I was okay and if I was lost... they assumed that because I was on my own I`d lost the crowd I was travelling with but it was really nice of them to check.

Once I got to Elgin some fantastic scenery awaited... Apologies for the very poor quality but they were taken on my mobile.











A proper bed with a mattress and comfy pillows and my very own shower….. HEAVEN!!!! Had a cold shower, unpacked and then went to meet a friend for dinner.

I couldn`t believe my luck when I found out that there was a bike shop literally 200 yards away from my hotel! The next morning I set off after skillfully starting my bike with Puny`s trusty spanner… A fellow hotel guest commented on the fact that it was like being at home watching a scouser hot wiring a vehicle! Cheeky git.

The guys in the bike shop were fantastic…. After checking everything they decided it was a problem with the immobiliser on my alarm and indeed it was. It had gone into some sort of standby/workshop mode? And required a sequence of pressing buttons to fix it. After looking it up on the internet the guy was able to sort it and they refused to take any money for their troubles. After a couple of mugs of coffee I was off on my way again.


Today I was heading over to Gairloch and my route was up the A96 back to Inverness, over the Kessock Bridge to the Black Isle and then pick up the A9 to Wick/Thurso. At Tore roundabout I headed onto the A835 and then picked up the A832 to Gairloch and Poolewe.

I`d been advised to get petrol at Inverness but had suddenly found myself on the Kessock bridge without seeing a petrol station.






Barely on the Black Isle and my petrol light came on. I stopped at a petrol station but alas no unleaded petrol!! I was informed by the cashier that none of the major petrol stations had unleaded fuel. She then advised me to travel 2 miles down the road (a dirt track!) and i`d find another petrol station. I did as I was told and thought I`d been sent on a wild goose chase until I suddenly came across 4 or 5 houses with a petrol station that looked like it was out of the 1950`s. I grabbed the fuel pump and suddenly heard a roar, a hairy man who must have been at least 95 was limping towards me dressed in denim dungarees shouting and gesturing at me! I didn`t have a clue what he was saying as his accent was so broad but he snatched the pump off me and started to fill my bike up. This took about ten minutes as he tried to insist that after £5 the tank was full!!!!! I then went to pay and made the mistake of offering my card rather than cash. He snatched the card and blew the dust and cobwebs off his card reader thingey. After 5 minutes of trying to carry out the card transaction I offered him cash but was roared at again with lots of Dinny`s and Ken`s and Och`s. I went outside and had a drink of water and ate my sandwich in the sunshine. After another 15 minutes the guy came out with a huge toothless grin and handed me the machine to enter my PIN!!! With a cheerful wave to the party of onlookers (all wearing denim dungarees) I was on my way again.

The A835 and A832 were fantastic roads, the sun was shining and I hardly saw any traffic. I stopped at Kinlochewe and bought sun tan lotion!











I pulled over for a drink shortly before entering Gairloch…

Whilst taking pics I noticed a lady breastfeeding her baby who looked a little uneasy. I hastily explained that I wasn`t taking pics of her!!!! She was quite relieved and we then had a little chat about her husband`s dismay at coming on holiday to Scotland and not being able to bring his bike to take advantage of the lovely roads. His new arrival had put a stop to any future bike tours poor guy.










I then headed through Gairloch and onto Poolewe where I found a really secluded sandy cove and was able to strip off my leathers and sit with my feet and legs in the water whilst eating my lunch and reading my book…. Was lovely.









I spent a lovely quiet 45 mins there and then headed back towards Gairloch and onwards to Loch Connel via the A832 and the A896.






The sun continued to shine and my god was I hot…. I rounded a bend to stop for a drink and stumbled across a lovely little village, I think it was called Shieldaig??

















Whilst pulled over another group of Scottish bikers stopped and asked if I was okay and again asked if I`d got split up from my group lol. I reassured them and then said I was venturing down to the village to get a drink so they came with me and we had a lovely 30 mins chatting and putting the world to rights whilst my shoulders, neck and front got badly sunburnt again!

Onwards to Loch Carron and this is the view that awaited me… it took my breath away














I settled into my B and B and this was the view from my bedroom….





The bedroom was so comfortable with an en suite and sky tv

It was a truly beautiful house up on the hillside with stunning views across Loch Carron








The hosts were so lovely… they made me feel so welcome and nothing was too much trouble. They had a lovely dog who bounded up when I arrived wagging his tail jumping all over me. I`d managed to get a really nice midgy bit on the corner of my eye lid and by the time I arrived my eye was so swollen I could hardly see out of it. My hosts stuffed me full of anti histamine which worked a treat and though still swollen my eye didn`t close up.






I sat on the terrace having a drink with the owners. The guy had both designed and built this fantastic eco friendly house by himself… 16 weeks from start to finish!!! He was so enthusiastic talking about it and I honestly can`t blame him. It was as fantastic on the inside as it was on the outside.

It was a lovely evening so I wandered down to the village and sat outside a bistro drinking a cold glass of wine and feeding my face on a fantastic feed of langoustines in garlic and chilli butter with crusty bread… was heaven. Suddenly a roar broke the peaceful and sedate feel of the village. I felt the table shake and looked up. Hmmm I thought, that looks like Almarko coming up the road? The bike drew level with me and yes it was Almarko. I stood up to wave just as Puny Express, teatowel round his neck flying in the breeze llooking like Biggles rode past me but they didn`t see me. I sat down noticing the worried glances of some fellow diners who thought i`d jumped up dancing just for the sake of it!

I discovered on my trip that if you want to be left alone without a thousand questions you should take a book and bury your nose it in. I therefore crossed the road and sat on the shore of Loch Connel reading my book and my feet in the water... I kept my trousers on this time though!!





Why show a picture of washing drying? well this will be my lasting memory of my visit to Lochcarron, the village is built along a narrow strip of land with a mountain behind. The cottages lining the road have either no garden or the gardens are very small, so being practical folk they use the stony beach to have drying poles!

By now I was very sleepy… it had been a long day as I`d left Elgin around 10am and had arrived at Loch Carron at 6pm. I returned to my B&B where the guy was most disappointed to find out that I hated Whisky! He had a display cabinet full of a vast and impressive array of malt whiskies which he wanted to show off... he`d have to leave that for another guest! I settled for a cuppa then had a fantastic sleep and awoke the next morning to a lovely breakfast. I`d refused the full cooked English breakfast so my hosts had prepared me salmon and scrambled eggs. Was lovely and they`d also made me a packed lunch for that day. I set off around 9.30 to head over to Stirling way.

My route for that day was a combination of the A87, the A832 and the A835 in order to enjoy some of the nicer roads in that area but I wanted to see EileanDonan Castle and also UrquhartCastle prior to heading back to Inverness.




















Loch Ness but not a monster in sight!







From there I took the A9 to Carrbridge, A938 to Grantown on Spey (lovely road), A939 (another lovely road) to Tomintoul and Braemar, the A93 (fantastic road!) through Glenshee and onto Perth. At Perth I rejoined the A9 to Stirling.







I stopped in Grantown and was yet again asked by some bikers if everything was ok and if I`d lost my friends. I explained that I was obviously a “Billy No Mates” and they asked me if I`d like to join them. I gratefully declined as I already had my route and was gonna stick to that. It struck me how friendly and helpful everyone was though. It has to be said that all of the guys who stopped and asked were Scottish… what a friendly bunch they are.

I rode some fantastic roads… hardly any traffic and just miles and miles of smooth roads with long winding bends and the occasional sharper bends that came from nowhere!!

I had one “heart in mouth” moment when a car I was riding behind suddenly decided it was turning right at very short notice. I slammed the brakes on fully but my bike kept going!!!! It slowed down but I could see myself rolling over the top of a VW and ending up on the bonnet! However she thankfully turned quickly and I was able to swerve round the inside of her.

Tomintoul was quite a bleak place, no cars and long winding roads that stretched for miles into the distance.....















I came across some hairpins going up and up and realised that I must be quite high up as there was a ski resort!!! complete with chair lift!






I stopped at the top for more water and met an American couple on a BMW who thought it was just “Goddamn fantastic” to meet a woman on her own and asked if I was filming a documentary like Ewan McGregor??????? I pmsl and asked them if that were the case then where the film crew and the make up artists?


Glenshee was very picturesque and a beautiful road






It was an extremely long day, I`d ridden miles on that extended route. My hands and neck were aching but I was still feeling really happy with myself and having an absolute ball.

I`d left Loch Carron at 9.30am and arrived at my accommodation just outside Cumbernauld at 7pm.

It was really nice accommodation at the Inkeepers Lodge and I got a lovely surprise when my friend Rhino from Edinburgh (some of you met him at Applecross) turned up with a huge smile and an offer of dinner!

We went for a Chinese and had a good chinwag…. He admired my fixer peg and also adjusted my front brake for me.

Next morning I decided to have a leisurely day. I started by ringing Kilted Ginger and took him up on his offer of coffee. I really thought i`d been sent on yet another goosechase as I was riding along single track narrow lanes with only farms and animals in sight. Then I realised that yes I was a bit lost! Rang him and retraced my steps to be met by a wild haired tee shirt clad bloke on an SV650. He took me to his beautiful home which is, incidentally, up narrow lanes amongst farms in a beautiful setting. Had a lovely rest and a good gab with a couple of cups of really nice coffee. I set off for Carlisle at about 12.45 via the M80, A80, A73 to Lanark, A73 – 72 to Biggar, A72 – 701 to Moffat where I stopped and had the most fantastic icecream, The sun continued to shine and again I got sunburnt whilst sittinghaving a rest.

I carried on along the A701 to Dumfries and then the B7076 to Gretna then as it was getting quite late I took the motorway for the final short stretch to Carlisle and arrived at 6.30pm. Once there I was a bit annoyed as they`d promised me it was secure parking… well yes it was secure if you were prepared to pay £10 for a night in a multi storey (which I wasn`t). The porter then said I could park my bike around the back near the kitchens and behind locked gates. Despite being a city centre travel lodge it was really nice… they had their own restaurant and bar. I sat with my book after having something to eat and the porter then brought me a glass of wine free of charge to congratulate me on my travels.. Lovely! I retired to my room and had yet another fantastic sleep.

Next morning was my trek home…. I decided i`d go via the Lakes as I really didn`t want to do motorway.

Interesting but it was so blaringly obvious that once I headed into England the nodding and the acknowledgements stopped! In Scotland every biker acknowedged me but once in England I swear only 2 bikers returned the wave or nod

Finally entering the Lake District















I swear there was a stoat or a weasel type thing who popped his head up behind the rock but by the time I took the pic he`d gone!






Onwards I rode, hot and sticky, covered in dead flies and dead fly juice! I rode through Cockermouth, Keswick, Ambleside, Windermere and Kendal. Then I took the A roads to Lancaster. Just before Lancaster I decided that as boring as it was going to be I`d take the Motorway to do the final run home. I stopped off at Lancaster Services where it had all begun last Friday







I sat in the shade and had a late lunch and a rest before arriving home around 4pm.

I had a fantastic time, thoroughly enjoyed GMII and apart from the mishaps with my bike (just one of those stupid things which I wasn`t gonna allow to spoil my trip) it was uneventful thankfully.

I learnt a few things ie:-


1. Don`t overload my bike with luggage.

2. I don`t really need to take a hairdryer with me and didn`t even use it once. My hair will look awful whatever I do lol

3. Scottish bikers and people in general are a friendly and hospitable bunch.

4. I don`t need Sat Nav… a regular map will do me

5. I learnt how to lube my chain, check and top my oil up whilst on my own. This prob sounds a bit daft but it`s something I`d never done and always relied on other people to do for me.

6. There`s no point washing your hair in the morning whilst it`s hot cos by the time you`ve packed up you bike again ready for the off your hair is wet through due to sweating

7. Regular stops for water are a must… I think that`s what kept me alert and hydrated. Wear a neck tube and everytime you stop rinse it in cold water… doesn`t half cool you down when riding.

8. Never underestimate your abilities


On a personal note I`m proud of myself…. I never thought I`d have the confidence to go off on my own but I proved to myself that yes I can do it. I feel quite empowered and realise that I have strengths there that I never thought existed.

I`ve always considered myself to be an independent type of woman but I think i`ve even shocked myself to realise just how independent I can be and how positive my outlook is. It`s actually quite nice being somewhere remote and peaceful all by yourself. You have time to think about life in general and prioritise certain things and put other stuff into perspective.

Just short of 2,000 miles and i`m glad to be home safely. I was truly blessed to have such fantastic weather. I must be the only person who`s ever returned home from Scotland with a sun tan!!!

[lukemillar]

Awesome read! Great stuff Claire

[dizzyblonde]

aww Claire, after our chat last night, I really thought your mini adventure was to be proud..all by yourself.

BUT now I've seen the pics to go with the tale....

...jealous.?..moi?
Superb photography there Claire. Captured forever an absolutely mega solo ride

i salute you.... on a trip well done, planned etc... and some seriously stunning pics!! (naught wrong with your camera skills there! )

i wish i had the "guts" to venture the lenghts and breadths you have...


well done!!

absolutely freeeeeking marvelous

Well done Claire, looks a fantastic trip, nice pics as well.

[DarrenSV650S]

Can't be bothered reading all that but the scenary looks great

Just pouring myself a glass of wine to read with this epic.

[the_lone_wolf]

Credit to you Claire for carrying on after having a moment, looks like a perfect trip, lovely weather and fantastic scenery

fantastic story claire. you should rightly be proud of yourself doing that journey all by your lonesome. Im quite happy going out for a ride myself but dont think Id have the guts to do a long journey like that. Loved the bits you mentioned about paddling in the water and stopping to eat your sandwich and read your book. You were so so lucky with the weather though. really enjoyed reading your memoires

[Luckypants]

Epic! Looks like an excellent trip. Great pictures mate