Clutch basket options?

Thats it, fed up of looking like a complete t*** everytime i miss 2nd gear, and im gonna wear the dogs.

I have replaced and adjusted everything its definately the basket.

Is there such thing as clutch basket reconditioning?
Im guessing only aftermarket are slippers as £600 a pop?

Placed ad in wanted section, but i really want a goodun.


Thank you

This is just annoying me now, new basket in with the clutch plates, has only done 7k. Same, 1 to 2 gears hit and miss at high rpm. Also now neutral is hard to get again!

The ebc plates fixed the neutral problem, but they smashed to pieces within 1000 miles, so im using the low milage oems.

When shifting from 1 to 2 is it normal to briefly see the neutral light come on. Maybe its the HG oil? How are the plates lubricated just bathed in oil? or is ther some channel or jet clogged. Im out of ideas lol.

Worm drive is correct.

[Sid Squid]

Yes, of course it's normal to see the neutral light, very briefly, as you go from first to second - you pass through neutral when doing so.
A slipping clutch won't affect gearchanges, a dragging clutch may well and will often make neutral hard to find, which is as you describe, so you seem to have that problem. You say the 'worm drive' is correct, from this I assume you mean the lifter is in good adjustment, has it been replaced?
What exact problem are you having with the gearchange? Are you sure you're not just missing a gear now and again? Trying to get a quick change is a recipe for missing one ocasionally.
What makes you think the basket is the problem when it's only the change from first to second that's possibly affected?

[yorkie_chris]

Since you don't actually need to use the clutch at all if you're shifting right, what makes you think there's an issue?

Seeing the neutral light is normal, think about how it works. The neutral light switch is a pair of dead simple, daft as bricks contacts on the end of the shift drum. Neutral lives in between 1st and 2nd, so you go through it when travelling from 1st to 2nd.
Always nice to understand a system before dropping into the response known as "RAAARRRRGGHH #misguided frustration# MUST SPEND MONEY #looking at different parts while ignoring real issues#" etc.

Go sit in the corner for 5 minutes and come back when you're prepared to think in terms of big stupid lumps of metal rather than voodoo.




P.S slipper clutch keeps stock basket, and if you think it will fix this issue then you don't understand how slipper works either

I know how it works, but i didnt know how the neutal light switch is closed.

I have not done it blindly but systematically. All signs point to dragging clutch.

Clutch adjustment. Done
Oil level and change Done
Chain tension Done
New plates Done neutral was now easy, but still had 1 to 2 issue.
New basekt Done

I couldn't tell if a basket was worn to the point of needing replacement as i dont see them day in and out. Neither could anyone else is seems, i have posted photos several times, no replies. I assume id have problems across all gears if the basket had gone, but as i wanted to try different oem plates anyway i bought the lot to see if it helped.

Countless others have had this problem from 1 to 2, and they changed the plates and all was good, hence my reason for trying.

As for neutrel light on between changing none of my little bikes ever did this, my friends zr7 doesnt do this, its possibly to quick and smooth to be noticed. I can ride his the same way and his is lovely and smooth. Other bikes you barely feel neutral as you pass throught it, My sv650 just seems to want to go into neutral more than any other bike ive rode, you feel it clunk in and out as you pass through.
When changing down from 2 to 1 with clutch in you can feel the crunch of the dogs because of the clutch drag, but i cant get rid of it.

No problems at all in any of the other gear changes.

Always nice to understand a system before dropping into the response known as "RAAARRRRGGHH #misguided frustration# MUST SPEND MONEY #looking at different parts while ignoring real issues#" etc.

Go sit in the corner for 5 minutes and come back when you're prepared to think in terms of big stupid lumps of metal rather than voodoo.

So what do you think the problem is smart ****. :-p

[yorkie_chris]

Problem with pics of basket is they are misleading, add different flash and a healthy basket looks f***ed. Rub your finger over edge of it, small wavy wear is ok, deep square edges gouges will cause a problem.

If the clutch isn't dragging at a standstill, grabbing at pick up or slipping on load; it's fine.

I think you need to move your foot more.

Edit:
I'm not just taking the p*** there, mostly. If you look at the design of the shift star, 1 and 2 have a bigger gap between them than the others, so the feel is different. A lot of shifting problems can be cured just by moving the lever to be more comfortable.

[CodeJACK]

I REALLY dont understand allot of this stuff but to me, you may have issues with your shift star?

Can anyone tell me if these are actually any good or why you would need to "upgrade" to one?
http://www.factorypro.com/products/s...ctory_EVO.html

[yorkie_chris]

It's the shape of the ramps.

You know how they work? A spring loaded roller pushes into that part, so when you move your foot you have to lift the roller thus compressing the spring on the end of the arm. Then when you moved it far enough to go over the top of the ramp the spring is pushing the same way, but due to the slope it's now helping to move the drum to the next position (the next gear).

Making the ramps taller means you have to exert a bit more effort at first, but it means you get more help moving the last bit. The shift can feel more "positive" because you get a bigger click.


The "problem" is only with early ones, if you have a K5 or later bike then suzuki changed the shape of the ramps themselves so you don't need the factorypro part.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Problem with pics of basket is they are misleading, add different flash and a healthy basket looks f***ed. Rub your finger over edge of it, small wavy wear is ok, deep square edges gouges will cause a problem.

If the clutch isn't dragging at a standstill, grabbing at pick up or slipping on load; it's fine.

I think you need to move your foot more.

Edit:
I'm not just taking the p*** there, mostly. If you look at the design of the shift star, 1 and 2 have a bigger gap between them than the others, so the feel is different. A lot of shifting problems can be cured just by moving the lever to be more comfortable.

Forgot about this thread, yep i did all that a while back, lowered the shifter for the same reason you said

Its definately dragging more than any bike ive rode, but its not huge.

Originally Posted by CodeJACK

I REALLY dont understand allot of this stuff but to me, you may have issues with your shift star?

Can anyone tell me if these are actually any good or why you would need to "upgrade" to one?
http://www.factorypro.com/products/s...ctory_EVO.html

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

It's the shape of the ramps.

You know how they work? A spring loaded roller pushes into that part, so when you move your foot you have to lift the roller thus compressing the spring on the end of the arm. Then when you moved it far enough to go over the top of the ramp the spring is pushing the same way, but due to the slope it's now helping to move the drum to the next position (the next gear).

Making the ramps taller means you have to exert a bit more effort at first, but it means you get more help moving the last bit. The shift can feel more "positive" because you get a bigger click.


The "problem" is only with early ones, if you have a K5 or later bike then suzuki changed the shape of the ramps themselves so you don't need the factorypro part.

Yes know how it works, shallower indents might help. I have saw threads about it before even buying the SV.

What changed with the newer ones? taller or lower ramps?

As Chris says, have you tried clutchless shifting on upshifts?

If it still does it, look at alternatives to the clutch being the problem.