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Old 08-03-17, 04:23 PM   #1
fulburncams
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Default Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but I have just tried to service my rear brake ( 2004 K3 SV650S). I have put on refurbished caliper, new Hel brake lines , new pads and all looks good but I cannot get any pressure on the brake pedal. I completely drained the old fluid, replaced with new and have used vacuum pump and can get fluid flowing through but pumping the pedal does nothing. Is there an 'idiots guide' to bleeding the SV650 that I could look at that might show me where I am going wrong ( I have googled but cannot find any example of similar problem). I have just ordered a Speed bleed nipple to see if that helps. Any help much appreciated. Thanks
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Old 08-03-17, 06:21 PM   #2
Stilo
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Are you holding the pedal down when you tighten the nipple?
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Old 08-03-17, 06:27 PM   #3
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

I think so, to be honest pushing the pedal does not seem to do anything currently. I will try again tomorrow ( my bike is garaged miles away from home ). Thanks
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Old 08-03-17, 06:47 PM   #4
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

I use the old school piece of pipe into a jar 1/4 filled with old brake fluid and the pipe below the fluid level so it acts as a one-way valve from the bleed nipple.

However if a Master Cylinder has been allowed to run-out there's an old trick I use to get pressure back in the system and draw fluid through.If you are allergic to brake fluid wear some disposable gloves or marigolds.

1:Top-up the Master cylinder

2:Spit on your hand and spread it around

3:Place hand on top of the M/C and press firmly to make an airtight seal.Now start pressing the brake pedal.You should,after a few presses,feel some suction on your hand.Hopefully very soon after you should have fluid pressure coming though.

This also works for the Front M/C as well.


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Old 08-03-17, 06:50 PM   #5
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

You could try taking the calliper off and tying it somewhere higher than the master cylinder (put a block of wood to keep the piston from coming out too far. To be honest I can't remember any particular problem when I did mine, but I didn't completely drain the system as you would have done when you replaced the hose.
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Old 08-03-17, 06:54 PM   #6
fulburncams
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Thank you all, I will give it a go tomorrow. Cheers
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Old 08-03-17, 07:04 PM   #7
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Quote:
Originally Posted by aesmith View Post
You could try taking the calliper off and tying it somewhere higher than the master cylinder (put a block of wood to keep the piston from coming out too far. To be honest I can't remember any particular problem when I did mine, but I didn't completely drain the system as you would have done when you replaced the hose.
Yes I seem to remember Red Herring and other pointy owners recommending this method.
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Old 08-03-17, 10:29 PM   #8
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Raising the calliper helps, works on my ducati leaving it tied up for about an hour Also had good success by reverse bleeding using a big sringe to push fluid back through to the master cylinder.
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Old 09-03-17, 07:43 AM   #9
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Have you tried moving the brake pedal down whilst drawing fluid through the bleeder with the vacuum. That has worked on my old bike to shift air from the master cylinder.
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Old 09-03-17, 02:56 PM   #10
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Default Re: Pointy Rear Brake bleeding not going well

Just to add my two pence worth (and having had problems bleeding the rear brake on mine), I bought the vacuum kit (which is worth having) and got there eventually. HOWEVER, after a complete strip and rebuild, the fail-safe easy method I found is to use a syringe and tube to fill from the caliper. By the time you have filled the reservoir or run out of fluid in the syringe (depending on the size of the syringe), the job's a good 'un.

EDIT: The trouble with the vac kit is that it sucks air in round the nipple threads so wastes a lot of tie and fluid whereas the syringe method uses only what you need and wastes zero.

Last edited by Blapper; 09-03-17 at 02:57 PM.
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