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11-04-18, 07:07 AM | #1 |
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Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
Hi all
I've recently had my tank painted and am about to refit the fuel level gauge. As standard it doesn't have an o-ring, but the painting has left some residue around the hole where it screw in. Therefore I was assuming I'd fit an o-ring (or just some PTFE tape?), BUT before I do is there any reason not to? I'm guessing it will marginally affect the 'level' at which the fuel light comes on as the o-ring will mean the gauge is maybe 2mm less deep into the tank, but is there any other reason I'm missing? Does the gauge need a metal-on-metal contact with the tank for any reason? Might be a stupid question, but if you don't know, you don't know. |
11-04-18, 07:34 AM | #2 |
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Re: Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
IGNORE ME!
Sorry Admin, please close - just took a closer look at the gauge itself and there's a rubber gasket 'inset' to the base itself |
11-04-18, 07:50 AM | #3 |
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Re: Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
You didn't specify which bike you're riding, but if the fuel tank sender only has one wire it probably uses the tank to complete the circuit. This used to be common on older cars, and I assume also on vintage bikes.
Modern bikes use two wire senders where there's a ground connection in the wiring loom. I'd imagine that modern cars have already started using digital sensors which communicate over CAN bus, but hopefully it'll be a while before this arrives on bikes. So, if your sender only has one wire you might need to remove paint residue to ensure a decent connection, but on most bikes there's no need. |
11-04-18, 08:35 AM | #4 |
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Re: Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
Lots of BMW, Ducati and Triumph models already use CAN bus I believe. Must read up on it as I have no idea what it means...
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11-04-18, 04:46 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
Quote:
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11-04-18, 05:49 PM | #6 |
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Re: Fuel level gauge - o-ring or no?
CANbus is the work of the devil when applied to whole vehicle - it means instead of just fitting a new part you have to address it and get it to talk to the network. Each module (eg. rear light cluster ) can receive and send information back to ECU (to tell if a bulb has blown etc. but to do this it measures the current device is drawing, if you replace a normal filament bulb with an LED one which will draw much less power it will signal a fault) - there are two ways to get new bulb accepted - one of which is to strap a resistor in parallel with LED to draw enough current to fool the module, another one is you can reprogram (or get it reprogrammed) the system to accept the new lower current. That is why a lot of aftermarket equipment like LED bulbs and HID bulb power supplies are labelled 'CABbus compatible' as they will fool the system, also CANbus systems can be more susceptible to electrical interference than normal wiring system so an un-suppressed shonky after-market HID module (25KV) will play havoc with the bus, but on a non-CANbus system will just interfere with your radio. Most Jap car makers have been slow to go over to CANbus to control every aspect of the vehicle, but the Europeans went into it headfirst. This lines up well with the fact that Germans were put on the planet to make things as complicated as possible, but the Japanese like to keep things simple - anyone who has ever worked on Siemens industrial stuff will know where I am coming from, Allen-Bradley, Omron and Mitsubishi are much more user friendly.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus
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