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Old 11-07-18, 05:23 PM   #51
R1ffR4ff
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

Absolutely right.As connectors corrode over time and if not halted the surface area of the contacts reduces.The effect is exactly the same as if you say have 1.5mm 20 amp multi wire cable and each year it lost a strand.Eventually it cannot handle the current it was designed for and will start to heat up as it's resistance increases due it it's reduced diameter/surface area.

I've just been fitting a MOSFET R/R and found out something I've not seen noticed on any forum when I've been researching and that is that on my 1999 Curvy Suzuki fitted not just one HT Stator Connector but TWO!.

I've removed both from the Stator lines and the one on the Regulator wires so they are hard wired in now.

I've been making some web pages for it and also have now fitted a small PC cooling fan to the R/R just for good measure.

http://puttingoutfires.x10host.com/M...sfetUniRR.html

Unfortunately it looks like the over-voltage has ruined the Circuit board in the Tacho as it's become unreliable and the 4 year old battery is suspect so it's gone.

Mosfet R/R is working as expected and running between 10-15 Deg C cooler with the the small fan.
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Old 11-07-18, 08:26 PM   #52
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

nice write up

notice that you use a clothes peg. might i suggests that you get some blu-tak and use that. its what i use for all my wire soldering and sometimes on circuit boards as well. press blu-tak on a surface then press the wire into the blu-tak with the end you want to work sticking out. if you use two blobs of blu-tak its easier to solder two ends together, keeps your hand free for the iron and solder
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Old 12-07-18, 08:11 AM   #53
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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nice write up

notice that you use a clothes peg. might i suggests that you get some blu-tak and use that. its what i use for all my wire soldering and sometimes on circuit boards as well. press blu-tak on a surface then press the wire into the blu-tak with the end you want to work sticking out. if you use two blobs of blu-tak its easier to solder two ends together, keeps your hand free for the iron and solder
I've used Blu-tac and similar Biblio but I can never find it when I need it.Nice thing about a clothes peg is I can leave it clipped to my Soldering iron so it's always around.

Also I always break the hook things on my soldering irons so I make my own out of some welding wire so I can hook the iron where I need to on-bike
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Old 12-07-18, 05:07 PM   #54
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
There's never a need to have a car running if jumping a Motorcycle and as you've found out it can ruin components on the Motorcycle.If the extra passive power from the larger Car battery won't start the machine then starting the Donor car won't help.The fault on the Motorcycle needs to be fixed.

Because the internal resistance of the Motorcycle battery will be lower than the Donor battery as it has been depleted the extra current from the Alternator on the car will bypass it's own battery and shunt the current to the smaller and much less robust Motorcycle battery.The danger to the Motorcycle electrics will increase further if the Donor car is revved up
Lesson learnt

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i'll stick my neck out here and say what i think has happened. i'll take a wild guess and say that the burnt out terminal is the red wire. now since the bike had a fault and broke down i'll say that the terminal was already on its way out. the reason for this is that the regulator in the RR is passing too much voltage or the rectification is collapsing and letting AC through, this is really bad news as the AC is at much higher amps. wiring, connectors and fuses dont care if its AC or DC but the terminals in connectors are specified to certain amperage be it AC or DC when the terminals go over their specified amps then they either melt, explode or in this case heat up causing the plastic around it to melt.
Your right! 2 years ago I thought I noticed the battery charging at 18v. But every time time I checked it after that it was at 14v so doubted my meter.
Then after a 150m ride, got home for 10 mins then headed to the shop. When I came out the shop the bike didn't have enough power to start (another occasion when jump leads came out). When I got home checked over again and this time it WAS charging at 18v! I have no idea how long this had been happening for so maybe that has caused the block to burn initially. I replaced the RR after that and all seemed fine... until this happened.
When the bike broke down I had rode maybe 30 miles. It must have been just deteriorating over time. Unless the new RR is also faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
Absolutely right.As connectors corrode over time and if not halted the surface area of the contacts reduces.The effect is exactly the same as if you say have 1.5mm 20 amp multi wire cable and each year it lost a strand.Eventually it cannot handle the current it was designed for and will start to heat up as it's resistance increases due it it's reduced diameter/surface area.

I've just been fitting a MOSFET R/R and found out something I've not seen noticed on any forum when I've been researching and that is that on my 1999 Curvy Suzuki fitted not just one HT Stator Connector but TWO!.

I've removed both from the Stator lines and the one on the Regulator wires so they are hard wired in now.

I've been making some web pages for it and also have now fitted a small PC cooling fan to the R/R just for good measure.

http://puttingoutfires.x10host.com/M...sfetUniRR.html

Unfortunately it looks like the over-voltage has ruined the Circuit board in the Tacho as it's become unreliable and the 4 year old battery is suspect so it's gone.I found an S set of clocks and bought them off eBay.I checked the part numbers and the clocks are the same so with luck I should be able to get it all sorted by next week.

Mosfet R/R is working as expected and running between 10-15 Deg C cooler with the the small fan.
I have a spare rolling frame with clocks, front fairing and headlights etc. I could have sorted clocks for you if i'd known.

Thanks for the info. Everyday is a school day
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Old 12-07-18, 05:27 PM   #55
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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Lesson learnt



Your right! 2 years ago I thought I noticed the battery charging at 18v. But every time time I checked it after that it was at 14v so doubted my meter.
Then after a 150m ride, got home for 10 mins then headed to the shop. When I came out the shop the bike didn't have enough power to start (another occasion when jump leads came out). When I got home checked over again and this time it WAS charging at 18v! I have no idea how long this had been happening for so maybe that has caused the block to burn initially. I replaced the RR after that and all seemed fine... until this happened.
When the bike broke down I had rode maybe 30 miles. It must have been just deteriorating over time. Unless the new RR is also faulty?



I have a spare rolling frame with clocks, front fairing and headlights etc. I could have sorted clocks for you if i'd known.

Thanks for the info. Everyday is a school day
Damn.Ok that's good to know for the future.I've chatted with the ebay guy I'm getting the clocks off and he seems decent

As the R/R I've bought is a cheap knock-off I'm wary now so I'm almost certainly going to fit a Voltage meter.Thing with the naked Curvy I'm trying to think which type and where to fit.

There's the single LED type like this,

https://tinyurl.com/yasvo47b

Which some of my old CX500 guys used but I fancy one with a proper read-out like this,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC12V-LED...EAAOSwQO9a61TY

And or might be able to strip one of these down for cheaper and better,

https://tinyurl.com/ya7sjpwq
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Old 12-07-18, 06:02 PM   #56
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

if its a mosfet then should be good to go unless its a really cheep POS.

voltage dials only tell you when there is over/under voltage and by the time they tell you something is wrong its already caused damage.
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Old 12-07-18, 06:05 PM   #57
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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if its a mosfet then should be good to go unless its a really cheep POS.

voltage dials only tell you when there is over/under voltage and by the time they tell you something is wrong its already caused damage.
I disagree Bib.Voltage increases can be incremental and over time.Some components can handle the increased voltage before failing,some can't.It's a good indication if there's fault if caught in time and some things can be saved.
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Old 12-07-18, 06:06 PM   #58
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

Quote:
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if its a mosfet then should be good to go unless its a really cheep POS.

voltage dials only tell you when there is over/under voltage and by the time they tell you something is wrong its already caused damage.


It wasnít cheap, about £90 from weemoto


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Old 12-07-18, 06:14 PM   #59
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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It wasnít cheap, about £90 from weemoto


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It may well have been corroded connectors that may have brought it down if it has failed
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Old 14-07-18, 11:03 AM   #60
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

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Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
It may well have been corroded connectors that may have brought it down if it has failed


Looks like the r/r has a burnt out diode.
Testing showed one of the 3 stator connectors on the + side reading 0 while other 2 reading 5.2

Iím not sure exactly what this means but Iíve a new one here and all 3 connectors read the same.


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