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Old 01-10-18, 07:29 PM   #11
SV650rules
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

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Originally Posted by Barney626 View Post
Just installed some LED lights today so we'll see whether these ones last. If they don't I'm gonna have to bypass that connector too...
Good job, what LED lights did you fit ?
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Old 02-10-18, 09:46 PM   #12
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

Installed these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wanted something kinda cheap to see if led was a viable option, but actually surprised at how good these things are. Mega bright and a good temperature.

Only time will tell how long they last I suppose...
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Old 03-10-18, 04:56 AM   #13
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

Look good but Id like to know how much less current they draw than conventional bulbs because of course this difference in power consumption will now have to be dissipated in the reg/rec unit so possibly leading to an increase in its running temperature......
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Old 03-10-18, 07:12 AM   #14
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

according to the box they are 48W, which would be 48/12 = 4 Amps per bulb. A normal SVs bulb is a 60/55W so on low beam 55/12 = 4.6 A per bulb.

The bulb will run much cooler but the LED power supply will still be producing heat (and requires a built in cooling fan). Not a big drop in current but much more light, the only problem is that a vehicle headlight is parabolic with only one focal point, if the LED is a stack of small diodes they won't all be in focus wasting the superior light output. If it's a single LED and set at the correct height it's death rays 'r us.

At 6500K (Kelvin) it should be quite a blueish light compared to a stock bulb.

Last edited by Seeker; 03-10-18 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 03-10-18, 07:16 AM   #15
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

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Originally Posted by glang View Post
Look good but Id like to know how much less current they draw than conventional bulbs because of course this difference in power consumption will now have to be dissipated in the reg/rec unit so possibly leading to an increase in its running temperature......
The ones I have draw less than 2 amps per 'beam' (1.8 amps) - you can't have two beams on together in one bulb - (dip and main) -because power supply is constant current and only supplies enough current for one LED array at a time ( LED work on current not voltage, the more current you put through them the brighter they burn, but if they cannot dissipate the heat smoke comes out and they die)- that is why they work from 9v to 32v with no loss of brightness at 9v and don't burn out if you fit them to 24 volt electrics. I have the classiccarleds ( Phillips Ultinon chips and they do not need a fan ) ones on my car and they are excellent. The Phillips LED chips (4 per bulb) are aligned and are dimensionally the same place, width and length as the filament - I have some before and after beam pattern photos of the H4 bulbs (filament and LED somewhere) and the only difference is one is yellow and one is white - the days of LED bulb makers fitting a single large LED chip and having a beam that sprays everywhere are gone ( but you can still get them at the cheapo end of the market).

The reduced draw will affect RR power, especially with twin headlights and you only draw 4 amps instead of 10 with a filament bulb.

For some unexplainable reason the ones the original poster has fitted have one horizontal and one vertical LED array - that looks like no H4 bulb I have ever seen ( there are two horizontal filaments with a 'cut-off' shield below the dipped filament https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headla...4_IMG_1269.JPG ) if you look at the bulb in my classiccarleds link the LED exactly follow the filament H4 placement. Would be interested to see the beam pattern on the OP headlights, may not pass and MOT with them in.
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Old 03-10-18, 07:50 AM   #16
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

If anyone is concerned about the extra heat that may be produced at the R/R they can do what I did when I recently repaired/upgraded my R/R to a Mosfet one.I basically over-engineered it by adding a small cooling fan.It runs off the thick Orange ignition switched wire under the fuse box on my Curvy.

http://puttingoutfires.x10host.com/M...Rpictures.html

I think there would be enough room under the fairing for it on a Stock R/R as I had to move the new MOSFET R/R to the left hand side of my SV because of the original Bracket on the right and the size of the new R/R.

Although I don't have an LED headlight bulb/s I have replaced my rear Stop/Tail bulbs,Number plate and front parking light bulbs with LEDS.

The position of the Fan on the MOSFET R/R was chosen using my Heat temp gun and was the main heat area on these.




The fan cost £1.99 and a few other cheap bits like connectors and an in-line fuse holder.

I also fitted a cheap LED Voltmeter farkle on my handlebars to give me an indication of my running voltages which after the repair are now back within spec.

HTH
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Old 03-10-18, 07:55 AM   #17
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

I supposed it's obvious but I'd never given it any thought that you can get vehicle lights that are illegally bright. I looked at the Philips Ultinon X-treme and they are not road legal, I suppose the name is a clue.
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Old 03-10-18, 08:40 AM   #18
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

on a twin headlight jobbie looks like about an extra 85w has to be continuously got rid of in the RR....
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Old 03-10-18, 08:43 AM   #19
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

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I supposed it's obvious but I'd never given it any thought that you can get vehicle lights that are illegally bright. I looked at the Philips Ultinon X-treme and they are not road legal, I suppose the name is a clue.
The OEM headlights on large German cars are too bright and beam placing / pattern leaves a lot to be desired (have to dip the mirror if one behind or squint your eyes up or look at passenger seat when one is approaching) , but I suspect they have a beam dimming device that works when the ECU detects an MOT test is being carried out.

Lots of bikes driving around with illegal exhaust cans as well.
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Old 03-10-18, 09:45 AM   #20
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Default Re: K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

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on a twin headlight jobbie looks like about an extra 85w has to be continuously got rid of in the RR....
A motorcycle alternator runs at maximum output continuously (there are a few exceptions) - it has a permanent magnet rotor. The r/r takes what it needs and dumps the rest which is why they get hot, the more load that is placed on the alternator's power, the cooler the r/r will run. If you exceed the alternator's output by adding too many extras, the best that can happen is a flat battery, the worst is smoke.

A car alternator has a field coil (instead of a permanent magnet) whose magnetic field strength can be adjusted to reduce the alternator's output when the demand is low. The early Hinckley Triumphs used a car style alternator but they are bulkier.

So switching to LED's may reduce the current flowing through connectors at the handlebars (not by much in this case) but the r/r will run hotter. Ideally, the high current devices should all be on relays so low power through the switch gear and the lights (for example) are on a separate, fused supply from the battery.
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