K5 Pointy Headlight Connector Burning out

[Barney626]

Hi all,

Had my K5 for a few months now. Just got back from a 2700 mile trip round europe.

One of the first things I did to the bike was replace the bulbs with osram nightbreaker ones.

I've been having an issue where the headlight bulbs sometimes just dont turn on at all (Both low beam and high beam) but sidelights are always on.

Narrowed it down to the large black connector that sits under the airbox. When i wiggled one of the wires in there the headlights magically started working again.

That block was getting very hot and I could see when i disconnected it that one pin was corroded/damaged/covered in something. I can only assume it got so hot it melted the plastic housing and has insulated itself.

So I cleaned the block out and it seemed to sort the issue out for about a month. First night of this europe trip headlights give out again. Got the tank/airbox up the next day and decided to bypass the connector block (Pics below).



Not my best job ever but had limited time/tools to get it done and I really needed them to be reliable for the trip. Twisted the wires together and shoved them in a metal tube with plastic round it (Not sure what the actual name is) That claims it's rated at 30A.

Headlights lasted the whole trip with no problems, but now they've stopped working again.

Will be pulling the airbox up again in a few hours to see what the state of my bodge job is, but I suspect the wires have burnt out/come undone again.

So with that all said, what do you guys think I should do to solve this problem permanently?

Was thinking about getting some LED bulbs as they claim to draw less power so hopefully wont burn out the wire as much?

Cheers

[SV650rules]

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/col...-h4-motorcycle

Try this, I fitted one to my 2016 AL7 - only thing is you need to find room for the constant current supply module within a fairly short distance of bulb, you can get H4 male female socket extenders ( about 120mm long ) off internet but still need to find room for module about 40mm square x 15mm thick.. also finned heatsink screws onto back of bulb, I used computer heatsink paste on the thread, bulb rotates in holder to set up the beam, although all mine arrived setup for UK ( UK supplier is probably why ).

Light is very white and picks things out much better than filament bulb light, is about 80watt equivalent output and beam pattern is good as Phillips led chips are placed in same place and size as filament, have a pair in car and best money I ever spent. Much more visible in daylight as well so I feel safer.

You can get same bulb as a pair for £70 on same site.

[R1ffR4ff]

Corrosion in connector blocks is the major cause of most Automotive breakdowns.If you have cleaned the corrosion off the connectors correctly and you reverted to the original bulbs you should be fine or as per other post/s lower current draw LED bulbs will put less strain on the connector but electrical block servicing is as important as any other from of servicing on Automotive vehicles.


Get yourself a can of ACF50,

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

and treat all your connectors/bulb holders with it once you have removed corrosion.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACF-50-Moto...keywords=acf50

It may appear expensive but it lasts for ages as you only need to use it sparingly.I also use it on my Rad hoses as it stops them decaying along with most fasteners on my Bikes.I've been using it close to 15 years now and never had a connector that has been treated with it burn out.

[Barney626]

So got under the airbox to have a look.

Pulled off the yellow connector I bodged on and found one side of the wire looked burnt?




Twisted the wires together and still no headlights.

Measuring about 7.2v across them though. Is that right?

Have I even got the right wire? Thick orange with red stripe:



Not sure where to go from here.

Checked both 15A fuses, both look intact. Don't have spares on me to swap out but I'll get some asap.

Until I get the headlights actually turning on, not much point in looking at other bulbs...

[Barney626]

So according to the haynes wiring diagrams there is a solid white and solid yellow wire which goes directly from fuse box to headlights. No connectors or anything.



I'm getting 7.3v in the fuse box connectors and nothing at the headlight sockets.

Swapped fuses out for new ones and still nothing.

Stumped.

[Grim-Lock]

check the white block in front fairing if you havent already

[Seeker]

From past experience troubleshooting wiring faults on line is near impossible and causes many arguments.

With that in mind...
burnt wiring at connectors is caused by poor connections, poor meaning they now have some resistance (caused by corrosion or the mechanical part of the connector becoming loose with age) and a current flowing through a resistance causes heat. As the heat builds the resistance increases and generates more heat.

You mentioned you measured 7.2V but between where and where? It sounds wrong anyway, I would expect to see 0 or 12v (depending on battery condition) but without more info, it's guessing.

You show a disconnected orange/red wire - this will be a switched 12V power (ie the ignition would need to be on for it to have power) but your (section of) diagram doesn't show an o/r wire. I only have a US spec pointy diagram (year unknown, which has different lighting wiring, I think) but it shows an o/r wire going from speedo to speed sensor and another going from ignition switch to ECU. You need to identify that wire. Does the bike still start?

So, I'm confused already (not that it takes much).

[aesmith]

I'd take any colour coding with a pinch of salt. My K6 had part of the wiring harness using colours from the diagram for that year, but other parts had colours (and actual function) matching diagrams for 2008 onwards.

[Seeker]

Originally Posted by aesmith

I'd take any colour coding with a pinch of salt. My K6 had part of the wiring harness using colours from the diagram for that year, but other parts had colours (and actual function) matching diagrams for 2008 onwards.

I hope that is the exception otherwise we're in deep doo doo (tech expression).

Over the years on the odd times I've traced wiring it's been ok, subject more to Haynes' problems than the manufacturer's.

[Barney626]

So managed to solve this.

Turns out previous owner has bypassed the 'pass' switch by running headlight current through the yellow connector. Had another burnt out pin.

Cleaned it up and headlights are back on.

The wiring diagram I showed isn't complete, there is an o/r wire for headlights in a different part.

Just installed some LED lights today so we'll see whether these ones last. If they don't I'm gonna have to bypass that connector too...