Chain Snapped this morning

Just over 13,000 miles and my chain snapped this morning ... luckily it was when I put it in first gear as I was just getting it warmed up ... to be honest it has had a tight spot for a while, and I had just lubed it on Sunday (using JonBoy's technique of cleaning with fresh oil and rag ... though I am sure the two are unrelated ).

Anyway I have ordered a Chain and Sprocket Set off the Internet - Sealed O rings, JT sprocket are the manufacturers from www.toolparts.co.uk.

Anyone any tips for fitting please?

Thanks

Tony (Bikeless in Burnley)

no tips on fitting, but I'd really recommend a scotoiler, for all the reasons people have posted before.

£60 for a scotoiler is much better than £100+ for a new chain+sprockets.

You're lucky - that could have been much worse

Yeah - get a Scottoiler. Marvellous things.

16,000 miles and mines still going strong! Maintenance is the key.

Nice, new clean setup change next year.

[northwind]

Scottoiler and occasional checking keeps a chain as soft as your face... I just changed mine with a Tsubaki gold one and Renthal sprockets, and the original set isn't even significantly worn after 14000 miles. So why did I change it? Because I'm a tart

Doing the chain and sprocket change is dead easy... Though I'd recommend you pick up one of the manuals before doing it, for torque settings and whatnot. You'll need a pretty massive socket or adjustable wrench for the front sprocket nut, a medium-value torque wrench for the sprocket carrier bolts, etc, and a big-value torque wrench for the axle bolt. Also a rubber mallet is likely to come in handy, and a spray can of degreaser since the front sprocket area will be minging...

Will your chain come with a clip link and rivet link? If so, just put it on with the clip and ride over to your friendly dealer to get them to put the rivet link on. You can do it yourself, but it cost me a tenner to have my local fit it properly, while the tools to do it properly would be several times as much.

If they send you a continuous chain, you'll need to take off the swingarm to fit it. This will be a B**tard. So hope they don't.

Cheers for the info Northwind.

Although it has snapped at 13000 I bought it at 6,400 so I have had it for 50% of its wear in terms of mileage. I have always kept it well-lubed and checked tension for that time. What I can say is that I noticed the tight spot quite soon after buying it ... I think the previous 2 owners werent that diligent, certainly the last, as the rear tyre was badly squared off when I bought it ... I certainly wasn't for tipping her into any corners while the rear was in such condition (not that I am any kind of Joey Dunlop you understand).

The only additions/mods I have done, are a tank bag (to hide a slight dint in a certain light, tipped by some attempted thieves under previous owner) and the most essential one, if riding 24/7 in Blighty, the trusty fender extender. I don't see how you can get away with NOT fitting one.

As for the chain, I hope the swinging arm doesn't have to come off. Still, I am relying on a friend to assist, who has rebuilt several bikes, so I should be in safe hands.

Thanks again

Tony

[northwind]

If they send you a continous one, I'd seriously suggest you either send it back, or find a rivet link for it, cut it and then fit the new link. Taking the swingarm off would be way too much work to be worth even starting on, for a simple job like this, IMHO.

Changing chains is much the same on pretty much any bike, so your mate should be able to deal with it no trouble. In fact, you probably could do it no trouble as well, but he'll probably have a riveter tool as well so that'll mean you can get it all done properly in one go.

But get a Scottoiler anyway!

[embee]

yes to Scottoilers.

..as for chain tension, just make sure you don't have it too tight. Get someone heavy (or 2 people!) to sit on it while you check how much tighter the chain gets when the suspension compresses.

If the chain actually goes tight as you go over bumps the loads in the chain can be huge, much greater than anything the engine can produce.

On my SK1 a rule of thumb is with the bike on the paddock stand, 2 links will just sit flat on the lower swingarm rubbing pad with gentle finger pressure.

If in doubt, a bit too slack is better than a bit too tight!

Hi All

Does anyone know the torque setting for the Front Sprocket Bolt please on the SV650S (Y-2000), presumably it's the same for all models?

Fitting tonight and have already sorted a Scottoiler for fitting next week ... so thanks for all the encouragement to spend more money. I am told it is worth it and I believe you all!

Thanks

Tony

Sorry I meant NUT!