Datatool System 3 removal.

I'm removing the Datatool System 3 from my SV650 K3 because it's being stripped for trackday use only. I'm in desperate need of a wiring diagram because I need to ensure I reconnect the wiring that's been spliced by the alarm fitters. So far the immobiliser circuit has been located and the original cables have been soldered together bypassing the alarm, I've also cut and insulated the alarm wires that tap into the indicator circuits at the rear. All was going well until I discovered that there are 4 blk/yellow cables on the left side that have been joined directly into black cables coming from the alarm box. I can't tell which ones to solder together as they all come out of the same side of the loom and link directly into these 4 alarm black wires
- has anyone any idea what these blk/yellows do or where they might feed a positive to?

Failing that, if anyone has a link to a wiring diagram for a 2003 model SV650 (pointy, injected and naked) K3 I'd be very grateful.

I absolutely detest Datatool alarms, they wire in everywhere and go wrong too often.

Thanks

[rictus01]

Just of the top of my head, I think you'll find those wires go to the reg/rec.

Cheers Mark.

[TSM]

Originally Posted by Lozzo

I absolutely detest Datatool alarms, they wire in everywhere and go wrong too often.

Every thatcham approved alarm cuts and links into the loom at several places, it all depends on the installer, some cut large bits out of the loom where its a relay contact others do nearly everything in a small section of the loom (like mine).

if it was easy to do i'd take mine off too, bl@@dy things a pain in the ass!

Originally Posted by TSM

Every thatcham approved alarm cuts and links into the loom at several places, it all depends on the installer, some cut large bits out of the loom where its a relay contact others do nearly everything in a small section of the loom (like mine).

Don't I know it. This is the third Datatool I've removed, and every single one has been a pain the the backside before and during removal. I've got the alarm box in the bin now, smashed to pieces with a lump hammer when it refused to stop sounding. I think this one has had large chunks of the loom modified when the alarm went in, god only knows why.

An alarm is meant to put a thief off for a minimum of 2 minutes, I've been trying my damndest to get this thing out and have the bike running for three hours now, and I'm still not there. It's not like I'm thick - I've rewired plenty of bikes from scratch and build trackbikes and championship winning racebikes for a hobby, but this thing is really getting my blood boiling.

Originally Posted by Lozzo

An alarm is meant to put a thief off for a minimum of 2 minutes, I've been trying my damndest to get this thing out and have the bike running for three hours now, and I'm still not there. It's not like I'm thick - I've rewired plenty of bikes from scratch and build trackbikes and championship winning racebikes for a hobby, but this thing is really getting my blood boiling.

IMO, it's a bl##dy good alarm then!!

Yes, it might go wrong, but for the pain in the rear it would be for a theif, well worth the money to at least claim you have one fitted even when you don't.

An experienced car/bike theif would know what these alarms are like to remove, and given the choice, would stay well clear!

Originally Posted by Baph

IMO, it's a bl##dy good alarm then!!

Yes, it might go wrong, but for the pain in the rear it would be for a theif, well worth the money to at least claim you have one fitted even when you don't.

An experienced car/bike theif would know what these alarms are like to remove, and given the choice, would stay well clear!

Sorry, but I disagree about them being good alarms. Every single one I've had any dealings with has gone faulty, they don't have any manual switchable over-rides for the owner to access and leave you stranded, always at the most inconvenient time in the most awkward of places. These are the main reasons why this one is being scrapped, even though it was still functioning. The last thing I wanted was the poxy alarm cutting the engine when I'm half way round Gerards or Craner Curve.

There's no need to go to those lengths to fit one, you can make it very awkward for a thief without chopping half the wiring loom away and rewiring the same cable with three colour code changes - yes, that's what I found on this one. I put this down to incompetent fitting of a badly designed unit. Give me a Meta 357 any day.

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Sorry, but I disagree about them being good alarms. Every single one I've had any dealings with has gone faulty, they don't have any manual switchable over-rides for the owner to access and leave you stranded, always at the most inconvenient time in the most awkward of places. These are the main reasons why this one is being scrapped, even though it was still functioning. The last thing I wanted was the poxy alarm cutting the engine when I'm half way round Gerards or Craner Curve.

You're entitled to disagree naturally

However, an alarm is supposed to first & foremost DETER (not prevent) the theft of your pride & joy. By reputation (because they're sods to remove), Datatool's do this (unless the theif is just after parts from the bike - ie, breaking to order).

Personally, when I'm fitting alarms (to vehicles or buildings) EVERY wire that I add is black. Whilst I'm installing I'll put temporary markers on the wires so I remember what is what, then when I'm done & the system is tested in-situ, the markers come off.

That way the theif has to decide which of any number of black wires to cut. Never an easy decision.

However, alarm units with faults, that's a different problem all together, and I can understand why you don't like Datatool's on personal experience. Just that the way that I install alarms (and I'm no professional fitter), I purposefully make it a nightmare to rip it out again).

Originally Posted by Baph

Personally, when I'm fitting alarms (to vehicles or buildings) EVERY wire that I add is black. Whilst I'm installing I'll put temporary markers on the wires so I remember what is what, then when I'm done & the system is tested in-situ, the markers come off.

That way the theif has to decide which of any number of black wires to cut. Never an easy decision.

That's fair enough and your methods are similar to mine, but usually you'll find that the loom has been spliced into in a number of places and you can tell exactly where the cables link back up to once you've chopped the black Datatool ones out. Chopping the alarm out might be straightforward, but it still takes a while. On this thing they've removed a 20cm long original cable, re-routed it via the alarm box and it changes colour three times before it goes back into the original loom nowhere near where it was originally cut. I'm at my wits end with it and almost tempted to buy a new or unmolested used wiring loom and start again. it's just giving me headache upon headache.

If I were a thief I'd be determined to beat it and spend days getting it right just to prove that nothing gets the better of me, so what's the point of doing it like this.

[TSM]

Many people have also had problems with meta too and others, only reason that datatool seem to be higher is that they happen to also be very very popular. If there was a manual override then any theif could turn it off defeating the point of it.

Ive not had any problem with my datatool requiring me to remove or manually override it. All alarms play up in their lifes and cars are no exception.

People also saying it eats though batteries, i cant understand that as my SV never suffered a flat battery in the 2.5years ive had it and for 2 of those years it was only doing short trips (1-3miles) to and from work during the week and a few longer trips on the weekend.