Spark plug socket from tool kit

[Thaleshwar]

URGENT - Hi this morning I received spark plugs I was waiting for my SV650 K6, they are NGK CR8EIX (iridium replacement to CR8E); I am planning to change them tomorrow and wanted ready the tools; so out of curiosity I tried spark plug socket which came with the tool kit over new spark plugs I have received, and I was shocked to see it does not fit! Sockets has rubber bush inside which stops spark plug to reach to hexagon point, am I inserting socket on the wrong end? I am sure spark point will be going in and ball end will be remaining out where the socket is to be inserted, right? Do I have to push ‘hard’ so as rubber bush inside socket is pressed and allows to grip hexagon of the spark plug? That really will mean I am putting excessive pressure while removing old plugs and fitting new ones - please advise

[redtrummy]

I recently changed the front plug on mine - I cannot remember but does the plug fitted require the threaded feral that screws on the top of the plug? The spanner worked fine on mine. The other possibility is the rubber insert is not in its correct position. You could go for it and try it on the plug in the bike and if you cannot get the spanner on then force the rubber bung out. Once the plug is unscrewed just push the rubber back into the spanner to pull the plug out . The hex part obviously needs to go over the nut part of the plug so that goes on first . Mine is a 99 job and it was the first time I had swapped a plug on it - it was not very tight at all! Good luck.
I did not remove the rad totally to get at the plug - unbolted it, removed the top hose and pushed thhe rad sideways out of the way. I understand that it is possible to change the plug with the rad all connected up but the margin of error is small!

[DarrenSV650S]

Yeah push a little harder

[Seeker]

Most spark plug spanners/wrenches have a rubber sleeve (bush) inside that grips the plug's porcelain. Plugs tend to be buried quite deep in the head and the rubber bush allows the plug to be held whilst you're pulling the old plug out and stops the plug from falling into the plug "well" when you're trying to put the new one in. They (the sleeve/bush) are a snug fit on the porcelain as a rule.

[Thaleshwar]

Originally Posted by redtrummy

I recently changed the front plug on mine - I cannot remember but does the plug fitted require the threaded feral that screws on the top of the plug? The spanner worked fine on mine. The other possibility is the rubber insert is not in its correct position. You could go for it and try it on the plug in the bike and if you cannot get the spanner on then force the rubber bung out. Once the plug is unscrewed just push the rubber back into the spanner to pull the plug out . The hex part obviously needs to go over the nut part of the plug so that goes on first . Mine is a 99 job and it was the first time I had swapped a plug on it - it was not very tight at all! Good luck.
I did not remove the rad totally to get at the plug - unbolted it, removed the top hose and pushed thhe rad sideways out of the way. I understand that it is possible to change the plug with the rad all connected up but the margin of error is small!

Many thanks, will know tomorrow how it goes when I attempt to remove old plug first. I am not going to remove the rad out, just unbolt and move back to make space to reach to the plug, I first thought that ball side of plug will get hooked into rubber insert, so I tried that with my new plugs yet to be fitted, but that dint happen that’s when panic set into me, may be like you suggested rubber insert inside socket is not in its correct position will try to fiddle and see what happens. Apparently I researched so much and did not see anyone talking about the problem I felt so very apprehensive

[Thaleshwar]

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

Yeah push a little harder

Thanks, hope that’s right thing to do and will not damage threads

[Fen Tiger]

you need to remove the threaded nipple/ferrule from the top of the new plugs. Is that what is preventing the plug socket fitting onto the plugs?
For the front plug you can unbolt the radiator mount to the top of the engine and hold the radiator clear with a cable tie. No need to disconnect coolant hose

[R1ffR4ff]

I have removed my Horn bracket and fitted my horn to the Front left of my SV curvy,

This allows me to move my Radiator forward easily without having to remove the Rad hose or drain coolant,

The piece of card on the Rad has some double sided tape on it and I use it as temporary protection for the fins and my knuckles when working on my Front plug.


I use NGK Racing straight Plug caps,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+caps&_sacat=0


HTH

[redtrummy]

I remember now I got the rad out of the way as I expected the plug would be tight after some 20 yrs undisturbed but it was almost loose. I didnt lose much coolant and caught what came out and then put it back in.

[Thaleshwar]

Originally Posted by Fen Tiger

you need to remove the threaded nipple/ferrule from the top of the new plugs. Is that what is preventing the plug socket fitting onto the plugs?
For the front plug you can unbolt the radiator mount to the top of the engine and hold the radiator clear with a cable tie. No need to disconnect coolant hose

Hi Thanks, you were spot on! When I removed old spark plug it was without the nipple, so I removed same from the new one, and socket worked very well. Only thing I wondering is rear spark plug came of very smoothly, but front one had some kind of resistance while removing old one and inserting new one; this did not allow me to strictly follow what I had read and learnt that is first finger/hand tight and half turn with wrench, i could not do this on front and it was bit of guess work, I have no way to know I did it right or not, I turned on the ignition and seemed normal, finger 🤞