Bloody Brakes!!

[egcSV650s]

Hi everyone, im getting really annoyed with my brakes. Ive had both front calipers rebuilt by a brake specialist, ive got braided lines, plenty of meat on brake pads and discs are fine and also fitted a brembo master cylinder but the brakes still feel soft and the lever is going back to the handlebar if i push hard, ive spent alot of money on the brakes and nothing seems to be working but cant figure out what else it could be, just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as i feel like giving up. Thanks in advance

[DougieG]

A proper bleed see if there are any bubbles?!

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[egcSV650s]

Originally Posted by DougieG

A proper bleed see if there are any bubbles?!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Do i need one of those pump bleeders or is a normal one way bleed hose ok

[DougieG]

A normal hose is fine I used one for ages before getting a pump for ease

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[egcSV650s]

Originally Posted by DougieG

A normal hose is fine I used one for ages before getting a pump for ease

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Ill try it again, ive used up 2 litres of brake fluid trying to get it right

[Blapper]

My sure-fire definitive way is to use a huge syringe to push fluid up from the bottom. Vacuum pumps drag air in past the valve and you never know if they are moving that big bubble that is stuck somewhere. If the bubble stops in the line while you top-up the master cylinder , it floats back upwards so why not fill from the bottom to stop that?

[egcSV650s]

Originally Posted by Blapper

My sure-fire definitive way is to use a huge syringe to push fluid up from the bottom. Vacuum pumps drag air in past the valve and you never know if they are moving that big bubble that is stuck somewhere. If the bubble stops in the line while you top-up the master cylinder , it floats back upwards so why not fill from the bottom to stop that?

Will give that a go, thanks

[Talking Heads]

Pull the brake lever fully on, strap the lever to the handlebar then leave it overnight ensuring the master cylinder is at the highest point and above all the run of hose.
In the morning slowly release the brake lever but do not pull the brake lever again until you have manually pushed the pistons back into the calipers.
Once the pistons are back in the calipers bleed the brakes as normal.
Et voila, brand new brakes.

[egcSV650s]

Originally Posted by Talking Heads

Pull the brake lever fully on, strap the lever to the handlebar then leave it overnight ensuring the master cylinder is at the highest point and above all the run of hose.
In the morning slowly release the brake lever but do not pull the brake lever again until you have manually pushed the pistons back into the calipers.
Once the pistons are back in the calipers bleed the brakes as normal.
Et voila, brand new brakes.

Havent tried that yet so will give that a go, thanks. Just checked the thickness of my brake discs with a tape measure but will check properly tomorrow with a digital caliper but the tape measure was saying 4mm is that the minimum thickness of what the discs are meant to be

[Bibio]

tying the brake lever back overnight does nothing. think hard about it, the system is under pressure so nowhere for the trapped air to go. yes this can work on callipers that are needing stripped and serviced as it pushes the pistons out and puts the pads hard up against the discs but does absolutely fek all to a properly serviced braking system.

air in the system will have a lever feel of 'spongyness'

a feked master cylinder will just let the lever pull straight back to the bar, sometimes with a little resistance

unbedded pads will feel same as air to an extent but not as bad

difficulty in stopping bike (wooden brakes) can be glazed/old pads or more common is the callipers are needing serviced.

difficulty in getting a good bleed on brakes can be weeping bleed nipple threads which require ptfe tape on the threads.

bleeding brakes:
get a jar or clean bottle, a length of clear tubing that fits snugly on the bleed nipple and fresh brake fluid.

put tubing on nipple and place a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom of the jar/bottle, put the other end of the tubing in the jar/bottle so its submerged in the brake fluid. open bleed nipple and pump brake lever keeping an eye on the rez and top the rez up as necessary (do not let the rez run dry under any circumstances). keep pumping the brake lever till fluid starts to come out the tube and into the bottle. watch tube till there are no bubbles coming out the nipple end. close bleed nipple. its that simple. you can do the pull-open-close action if you like but its no necessary.

Tip: tap the brake lines with a spanner or something while bleeding, this will dislodge any air in the lines.