Washing Machine Help

Hi All

Got home from a weeks work trip to find my girlfriend had left the washing machine on, washing some bits and pieces - but I knew she leaves for work at 7pm, and I got in at 1045pm, so it must have been going for all that time.

The powder tray was poking out a bit and water was dripping out of it. I turned the machine off and drained it.

This morning I set about a trial wash. It started off with the usual clicking then spins incredibly fast for approximately 4 second then cuts out, and pauses for about 1 minute (clicks a couple of time) than repeats the process rather than entering the normal wash and drum spin sequence. It then gets stuck on steps in the cycle before moving on.

The water got very hot and the steam from the water pushed the powder tray out, and the dripping started again. It is only leaking from the front - have pulled it out and check the rear.

I also opened up the back and the belt looks ok - It's as if it spins too fast then a sensor knocks the motor/spin out as it never seems to enter the normal drum spinning speed, it just goes a bit haywire - was wondering if it was the brakes or bearing?

I have never serviced or messed with a washing machine before, but I'm keen to try and repair it rather than replace it as it's about 2 years old and not used much (only plugged it back in 2 weeks ago after being unused for a year) - a bit skint and would rather do it myself if I can

Any help would be massively appreciated
Cheers
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Oh BTW it a crappy Beko WMA10

Sounds to me like the controller PCB has gone the way of the Dodo.

You can replace them quite easily on most machines, just a matter of "plug & play" - but some models can be rather expensive. You might also get a "free" upgrade to a more efficient PCB as the current one is no longer stocked etc.

We had a similar problem with the clicks (which is the programme dial spinning) & it not washing properly. The steam is probably caused by a heater element (assuming it has one) staying on even after the max temp is reached (another sign of PCB failure).

If it's covered under an insurance/warranty still, get them to have a look at it, if not, you may be looking at a new machine all together.

comet website is very user friendly.

Originally Posted by Gene genie

comet website is very user friendly.

LOL - At the moment it is an option..

Thanks for the advice Baph - that's what I thought it could be... will have a look at some spares websites - it's such a basic machine that it can't be that expensive.....

Thats what i do at college, PCB's ect..

They are more expensive than you think..

Try getting a electronic engineer round, or someone from a company that do electronic repairs.
He could probily rewrite the PCB..
Not 100% though..

Originally Posted by saoralba

He could probily rewrite the PCB..

That depends on the fault (water ingress for example versus a corrupt EEPROM). But yea, a repair may be an option.

It's a bit like new style TV's though, most are generally cheaper to replace rather than repair.

I think it could be looking terminal. The machine was only about £159 new, have used it for a year and if a call out charge and parts are >£90 then it isn't an easy financial solution. - Gutted as I'm really trying to fix/sort/not dump things if I can avoid it

Thanks for the advice saoralba.... I know they ain't simple things at all - but was hoping it might have been an easy solution

[Stingo]

If you can figure out what the problem is there is a market in second hand spare parts. Check your Thompson local/Yellow pages etc. There's one in Plymouth called 'Respin 181' - these places are usually quite helpful (and cheap too!)

Aye most PCB's on cheaper electrical items are built to be replaced..
Even when there is a minor fault.

Bearing this in mind, find out the new price of a PCB, and see if its possible.