1st gear clunks

[Seeker]

This isn't a problem, I am just curious. I have never owned a bike with a dry clutch and I was wondering if they clunk going into first.

I've also noticed that selecting 1st on my bikes with a cold engine they will engage clunk free if the clutch is held in for 20 secs or so before selecting but you only get one shot at it.

I have a friend with an old Norton and 2 Matchless' (all wet clutches) and his old Brit bikes clunk into first too. One final observation is that my Yam clunks far more than the SV.

[Craig380]

My SV doesn't clunk into 1st when cold if I hold the clutch in and roll forward a foot or two. But most of the time it clunks, no matter how fresh the oil is, or how hot the engine is.

[Bibio]

might be due to how the shift detent works and the ratio of the gears and how they are cut. i know that with non synchronous gearboxes you have to push the clutch select neutral lift the clutch then push the clutch back in then select the next gear then lift the clutch again (double declutch).

[GeorgeRYoung]

In the dim past, I had a Bridgestone 350 GTR with a dry clutch. Six speed, shift pattern all down, best shifting transmission of all my bikes. No clunking that I remember.


There was a bit of a squawk on brisk start-offs.


Even now, after numerous bikes since with the 1 down/4 or 5 up pattern, I sometimes shift in the wrong direction.

[redtrummy]

'Even now, after numerous bikes since with the 1 down/4 or 5 up pattern, I sometimes shift in the wrong direction.'


GRY Try having a classic brit bike and a modern one, the gear - brake are on opposite sides. Know the Cub is one down 3 up. Cannot say what Suzys change is but it does clunk going into first. (Going to try some of the tips above.) I get over braking by using the front brake almost exclusively on both.
Years ago I joined an organized cycle tour in Poland, the bikes provided had the front and rear levers reversed, causing one Lady to fall off and I wondered why I kept locking the rear wheel before we realised why.