Cam chain tensioners

[northwind]

OK! So! Tomorrow I ought to be finally doing the cam swap, oh yes. Or the day after. Now, you have to remove the cam chain tensioner adjuster to do it. I have the gaskets, but there's supposed to be a special tool used when you reattach it. Looking at the manuals, I'm thinking I could possibly avoid the need for knocking up a special tol just by turning the adjuster screw and keeping it tightened with a screwdriver while fitting it? It'll be fiddly on the back one, but doable I think, anyone know any better?

Also, I just thought of something that I'd not thought of... I'll need to completely remove the radiator, presumably, to get to the front cylinder head. Now, do I need to drain the whole system? Or can I just undo the pipework and take it off without having to do that?

The manuals all say to use distilled water... Possibly very stupid question, but can I use regular bottled distilled water (still of course!) from the shop or do I need to go to a car/bike shop?

Never messed with the cooling system at all before, so I'm just wanting to cover my bases...

Someone here described a tool they made to keep the tensioner plunger withdrawn when removing/replacing the blocks.

I have read (somewhere here) you can check front pot valve clearances without touching the rad by lifting the tank and removing the carbs. I don't know if that would give you enough room for removing the cams though.

Distilled water is distilled water, wherever you buy it. However, don't forget to add a suitable anti-freeze/corrosion inhibitor.

Dude make sure you use distilled water or bolied water. I wouldn't use bottled drinking water because it is the minerals in the water that can clog up your rad.

Most car acessory shops sell a premixed anti freezer and de-ionised coolant, cold stream or someting simmilar. Its not too dear about £4 a gallon from memory and is just the job. Same flouro green colour too.

Don't buy the specal tool, there's no need. I regularly have to ping my tensioners and made a tool for holding them in about 10 mins using a brass picture hook and some wire cutters. Only use distilled on your cooling system. I got mine from Tesco for about £1 for 1ltr. You only need 1ltr of anti-freeze and 1ltr of water as the cooling system holds 1.6ltr.

... I'll need to completely remove the radiator, presumably, to get to the front cylinder head. Now, do I need to drain the whole system? Or can I just undo the pipework and take it off without having to do that?


Just a quickie along the same lines, I want to change a sparkplug on the no.1 cylinder, is there an easier way to get to that thsn removing the rad? I did try just undoing the bottom mount and easing it out but the pipes seem to be stopping me?

Originally Posted by Kingy

Just a quickie along the same lines, I want to change a sparkplug on the no.1 cylinder, is there an easier way to get to that thsn removing the rad? I did try just undoing the bottom mount and easing it out but the pipes seem to be stopping me?

If you are using the 'articulated' plug spanner in the toolkit, only the bottom mount needs to be removed. I have a short block of wood I then jam in to hold the rad out against the tension of the hoses.

If you are using the 'articulated' plug spanner in the toolkit, only the bottom mount needs to be removed. I have a short block of wood I then jam in to hold the rad out against the tension of the hoses.[/quote]

Eeeeeeeexcellent. That'll be another job to do when this stupid German weather sorts it's life out.

[northwind]

So far I've found that actually i don't need to take the radiator off anyway It's very tight, and I had to remove an engine bolt from the LHS to move the pipe, and the radiator fan to actually move it, but I've been able to shift the radiator far enought that it's no longer an issue. Result! haven't done any real work yet, just stripped the bodywork etc and took off the heads to make sure they'd come off

Also found out that my glowgauges tach dial is dead as a dodo, and I need to service my front brakes, but I'm never happy unless I'm fixing more than one thing at once...

[Sid Squid]

You can make a tool for holding the tensioners from a tin can and a pair of snips, (or even sturdy scissors if you don't have snips), as you say it can be done with a screwdriver, but it's a little more convenient with a holder that can easily be left in place, when you have the tensioner off, you'll see what it is that needs doing to make your bit of tin fit.