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Old 27-07-17, 03:32 PM   #11
Typhon219
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

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Old 27-07-17, 03:35 PM   #12
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

That looks like the top yoke off a Suzuki Bandit.
That's definitely not for an SV650....you just found the issue.
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Blue, mate, having read a lot of your stuff I'd say 'in your head' is unknown territory for most of us

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Old 27-07-17, 03:35 PM   #13
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

that looks like a bandit top yoke but i could be wrong
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Old 27-07-17, 03:35 PM   #14
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

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Old 27-07-17, 03:36 PM   #15
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

Ffs was advertised as sv650 top yoke. Will have to send it back. Thanks v much for your help
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Old 27-07-17, 03:38 PM   #16
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

Where are you based?
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Blue, mate, having read a lot of your stuff I'd say 'in your head' is unknown territory for most of us
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Old 27-07-17, 03:44 PM   #17
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

Radcliffe, near manchester
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Old 27-07-17, 04:00 PM   #18
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

Ah, the part of the country where folks appear less miserable.

I have the correct top yoke. I'd PM you later...got finger fatigue at the minute from typing on the phone.
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Old 27-07-17, 04:15 PM   #19
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

It's because we're usually drunk

Thank you but I've just nabbed the right one from eBay so think I'm sorted (assuming they are sending the right one this time)
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Old 27-07-17, 07:18 PM   #20
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Default Re: curvy yoke conversion help

You can't use the N throttle cable on the S housing - its completely different. You can use the clutch cable, but don't need to. Both cables can be rerouted perfectly well to give the extra length needed, as long as the new bars are not too high or wide. You will need to use longer brake hoses/hose. You will also need to cut the screen to clear the bars on full lock.

The N bottom yoke is slightly different, but you don't need to fit it. You will need to use thick washers (approx 4mm) on top of the yoke/under the nut, otherwise the nut will bottom out. The N bottom yoke has a shorter stem, I think due to the N top yoke being thinner overall. The S top yoke has a spacer cast into the bottom of it to make it thicker overall, I suspect to raise the S bars slightly.

I did find fitting the yoke to the forks was tighter than the one I took off, but I think that was due to manufacturing tolerances, and it did fit with a bit of effort.

You could drill the S top yoke, and fit risers, an ally plate glued underneath apparently works well.

The N yokes can be hard to come by, or overpriced. It took a while to find mine for £30, with the bottom yoke which I didn't use.

Doing the conversion was the best thing I ever did to my curvy S, it is really comfy now, well worth the effort and relatively small cost.
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