removing exhaust bolts

whats the best least messy way to remove the header bolts ?

i was thinking about running the bike till about 90c then hitting them i with a drift then shut the bike off and spray with something like deodorant to cool them down quickly and try and undo them

any other suggestions?

ohh and what bolts should i replace them with ? or keep the stock ones and stick loads of coper grease on them ?

thanks

[rictus01]

I presume you mean the exhaust studs?, if so just run two nuts on the stud, lock them together and then undo the stud from the head.

if it's only the nuts you need to remove, then if the thread is that corroded then you'll probably find the stud comes out instead of the nut undoing anyway, but a nut splitter or if it's rounded then the next size down imperial socket from the metric one that should fit, sometimes works.

Cheers Mark.

i mean the bolts that attach the headers to the cylinder head

cheers

[rictus01]

they shouldn't be bolts unless they have been replaced at some point already, but something like this
.

Cheers Mark.

ahh there cap head bolts

they dont look corroded so should come out ok then i suppose

[rictus01]

yeah and they aren't original either, a better solution when you come to re-fit is to use a slightly longer bolt and run a nut down to clamp the header in, this makes sure you're using the full length of the tapped thread within the head.

but replacement studs aren't expensive.

Cheers Mark.

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by barwel1992

ahh there cap head bolts

they dont look corroded so should come out ok then i suppose

Famous last words .

Mate, your bike is a K3 and persoanlly, I wouldn't py much attention to 'how they look' lol. get some plus gas and buy one of those hand held Butane torch....mine cost about £10(maybe £15) from B&Q . Bit of plasticine/Blue Tack/rag or tissue to help with getting the Plus gas in the right place might be a good idea.

All the above might sound over the top but after years of taking exhausts off SVs without problem, my first problem definitely taught me that, it's better to go over the top...

By the way, the hedaer botls on the Pointy are cap head designs so bolts could be original. If they are original, even more reason to be extra careful. Do all the above and also make sure you clean the recess very well and use a good quality Hex Bit Socket...not some 'poundland' runbbish lol.

Good Luck

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

By the way, the hedaer botls on the Pointy are cap head designs so bolts could be original. If they are original, even more reason to be extra careful. Do all the above and also make sure you clean the recess very well and use a good quality Hex Bit Socket...not some 'poundland' runbbish lol.

Good Luck

I second that!
I'm not touching mine with std sockets. Word of warning if the studs shear it will get very interesting.

ahh poop

how am i meant to get plus gas to seep in to threads that are only accessible from the bottom? :/

ooo good excuse to get something that makes fire i suppose

[punyXpress]

A sharp tap on the head of the bolt with a suitable implement might help free it.