Hydraulic clutch conversion?

Originally Posted by TSM

Did you have to modify the front sprocket cover

Yes, have a look to an original cover than you see what i did (with a saw )

what about the push rod, original one or the one from the DL?

You need a longer push rod too, i've forgotten to tell that. It must be 10mm longer than the original. The one from the TL/DL/SV1000 is the same as the SV650 original. I made an adapter to make my one longer with a piece of another rod (because it have to be harded).

Originally Posted by tj2

Nice belt drive conversion too.....

Thank you! more photos over there


greetings Dieter

Service at a dealership does wonders for the clutch. Don't know what
the mechanics at Fowlers do to the clutch but I always notice a
marked difference after service, especially as I normally have to
ride through heavy traffic when leaving the dealership. The clutch
works much more smoothly.

[johndo]

there is a simple method of making cluth lighter that is to use a Sammy Miller easy clutch ,5 mins to fit and you can adjust the ratio as well. got one fitted to my bike and the clutch is feather light. only costs about £10-15

Originally Posted by johndo

there is a simple method of making cluth lighter that is to use a Sammy Miller easy clutch ,5 mins to fit and you can adjust the ratio as well. got one fitted to my bike and the clutch is feather light. only costs about £10-15

How, or more precisely, where do you fit one of these things?

The SV650 naked curvy has a tight space and the cable already has a built in tight bend to make sure it misses the instrument cluster. Putting it in inline at the handlebar would make it run into this.

I've already had a new cable, cleaned and regreased the worm drive, greased the lever end and all is as good as it's going to be, but I'm concerned it may still be a bit tight for me on a regular basis. I've recently had tennis elbow in my left elbow, probably partially caused by the repeated use of the clutch on my daily commute, and I would prefer to avoid a recurrence. So, if I can make the clutch lighter, this will be preferable to the other alternative (giving up riding for another month or two ).

As I, with little girley sized hands, can pull the clutch in with one finger, I vote for lubing the cable, replacing if its still stiff.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by Paul C

As I, with little girley sized hands, can pull the clutch in with one finger, I vote for lubing the cable, replacing if its still stiff.

Agreed, if the clutch withdrawal mechanism is working properly the SV clutch is as light as you could wish for.
Along with the cable ensure the lifter isn't worn too, lost motion and lots of friction if it is.

Hi all, im gonna do a hydraulic clutch conversion on my naked curvy, iv ordered all the bits that i think i need e.g an entire sv1000 clutch and iv machined a piece of silver steel 10mm long to extend the push rod as apparently required.... i was just wondering if anyone who has attempted this could give me some hints and tips on how to get it right??
Thanks very much
Chris.B

I'm collecting bits to do this too, got a Hayabusa master cylinder now need to get a slave cylinder.

I'll be watching this thread with interest.

What benefit do you hope to gain from this, or is it just because you can?

Hi im about to undertake this conversion myself, i have a complete sv1000 clutch and master cylinder, a piece of silver steel 10mm long and a spare sprocket cover waiting to be chopped about, is there any chance anyone could give me a step by step account of how to do this conversion?? or any pictures would really help thanks to Dieter for his pictures they have already helped greatly.
Thanks very much
Chris.B