TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

Just done mine

Set it to just under 1500 rpm but i like to have my idle about that speed...

F**king battery died though! which was great but luckily my FZR battery still had charge so i bumped it from that and manged to set it, but cant test it due to the flat battery, work in a mo and i dunno when ill be able to get out on my bike next to test it

Any way i managed to chew up the top one upon tightening, could of been worse could of chewed it up undoing it...

Thanks for the guide

Had a quick shufty at mine, but my dealer code plug has 6 terminals and a metal thing conecting all 6 under the plastic cover?????

Originally Posted by Bedhead

Had a quick shufty at mine, but my dealer code plug has 6 terminals and a metal thing conecting all 6 under the plastic cover?????

I would suggest you have found the wrong plug then

It is quite hard to find, mine was tucked right into the left hand side pannel and i had to get some long nosed pliers to gai access to it

Just completed the TPS adjustment, the line moved up on my SV 650 at 4000rpm, now moving at just above idle speed, I cant believe the difference, its a much smoother ride all round, going down through the gears is now really smooth, previously it tended to just drop of probably when below 4000 rpm and get really lumpy, the main problem of very erratic tick over now seems OK.
Thanks very much for this info, pictures were a great help.

Ade.

Checked my '05 today. Bike has 19K miles. Bar was in middle position-ignition on, not running and when idling. Moved up to top at ~3,300. Noticed that as I moved (very little) the adjustment CCW, the bar went up to the top but the engine slowed way down--almost stalled. Moving the TPS CW made the bar drop to the bottom, but the RPM went up quite a ways.

Makes me wonder if the TPS changes the ign. timing, retarding it a lot as it is made richer. As others have noted, the TPS adjustment is very touchy--the slightest movement has a BIG effect. I ended up with the bar going all the way up ~2,500.

going to redo mine when i have new air filter and velocity stacks in her, but shreaded the bolt doing it up so looks like i will be getting the dremel out, the bottom one has already been replaced

Did my K7 last weekend - was 3500rpm now ~1500. Makes a big difference to the smoothness around town. Well worth doing. K7 onwards only has one screw but two TPSs. Only need to do the bottom one (the top one monitors the idle speed control I think).

[yorkie_chris]

Top one is secondary throttle valve TPS.

[Nobbylad]

Did mine today, makes a huge difference, really smooths out the power lower down. Mine was 5,000rpm, now just under 1,500.

My K8 only had one torx screw at the top of the sensor so it was a doddle to adjust it.

any one know what size bolts i need to replace the originals (one) with

k3 pointy