Carb overhaul kits

[R1ffR4ff]

Upload your photos to a free host. I use Imgur,

https://imgur.com

Once a picture is uploaded click on the Top-Right icon> Images and then on the image. Then on the right click on the,"Direct Link" option and copy the URL. Then Copy and paste that into the Forum's post Image URL box but remove any text in the box before you paste the URL into it.

It sounds complicated but it's not once you have done it a couple of times and it means you also have a backup of photos

As for Winterization I only did it a couple of times as I use Redex in my tank I've never had a trouble with Stale fuel. Even though it's not part of it's spec I suspect it helps prevent the fuel going stale. Also as one of my Qualifications is in,"Aircraft Fuel Tank Stately" I always filled up the tank before leaving it as it's safer unless you fully drain and remove all fuel vapour. A full tank also prevents inner tank corrosion.

Tip:

Keep a box or two of Bicarbonate of Soda in your garage or handy as it's a very efficient fire extinguisher if required and of course has loads of other great uses.

Although you said you don't like it it is better if you can ride the bike at least once a month even if it's only to get the engine to running temps thus getting the fluids around the engine and moving the Clutch and linkages.

[Biker Biggles]

Originally Posted by Tigernut

Thanks Biggles. But what does this snorkel look like? I don't know if mine has had it removed or whether what I'm looking at is it! All I see is the air filter box which has a black plastic tube going down the middle into the air filter. Nothing that looks like what I'd call a snorkel. Wish I knew how to post photos, I could show you what I mean.

I think we are talking about the same thing---Desnorkeling was to remove that plastic tube so allowing more airflow, coupled with raising the tank a bit and removing the insulation from under the tank. Allegedly boosted performance into Fireblade territory----Not!

[Tigernut]

Aha! (as Alan Partridge would say) - so it seems my snorkel remains intact. I'm pleased to know it - looks like lots of carb tuning trouble if it's removed.

[Tigernut]

I can't get the Imgur thing to work (it says it needs to verify my phone number, but it hasn't tried phoning!). But the good news is that I've got the carbs apart - the Laser JIS T-handle screwdriver with multi bits worked nicely on the float bowl screws once I'd supported and clamped the carbs securely to the bench. They must be fitted with Loctite?

The fuel was obviously badly stale. The float & bowl on the front carb have greenish deposits and a small amount of powdery crud. The main jet is also coated in the greeny stuff (maybe it's from corrosion of the brass?) and the retaining screw for the float needle housing has rust, so there was clearly water in there (from the ethanol fuel, I'm guessing). The throttle slide needle on the front carb has some of the greeny stuff on, and I think this may have been sticking it in the jet, meaning is wasn't lifting when the engine was running. Would this cause the symptoms I was finding, ie: starting immediately and ticking over like a watch, but dying the moment the throttle was opened, even a fraction?

Next job s to remove the jest (I applied a little PB blaster in case they're corroded & tight), and see how much can be cleaned up and how much needs replacing.

If I can get this Imgur to work, I've got plenty of pics to show.

[daktulos]

Originally Posted by Tigernut

If I can get this Imgur to work, I've got plenty of pics to show.

I'd recommend https://postimages.org/ - it's very straight forward and you don't need to register if you don't want to keep track of what you're uploading.

[R1ffR4ff]

Any corrosion or debris can affect the inner carbs. If the floats and the FNV cannot operate correctly it will impede the fuel flow at various revs/engine-load and of course if break away clog the fine venturi in the carbs. This will give the symptoms you have had.

Many times a neglected set of carbs will get moisture just from our damp weather and inner condensation if it has been left in a damp garage etc but of course also even prior to E5/E10 there is a certain amount of moisture content in fuel that usually gets burnt off.

I'm certain that once you have fully cleaned the carbs and serviced them and then balanced you will enjoy the super smooth power delivery of these engines. I still get a smile on my face when throttling down into bends as the,"Engine Braking" on these Motorcycles is an absolute joy to use.

I cannot stand any popping or misfiring on tick-over/acceleration or deceleration on a motorcycle and there's no need to suffer it once the carbs and ignition are nominal

Here's a sound clip of my recently fitted Kemimoto Slip-on,

https://app.box.com/s/ojq1vtdrf9jc0dqpl3fctu47rbskf1oj

cheap phone Mic and sounds even better live

[Tigernut]

Thanks Daktulos, I'll give it a try

[Tigernut]

That sounds good. Mine has a short aftermarket silencer which gives a nice deep sound (only heard it at tickover, but sounds excellent). I know how sweet these engines are, having ridden friend's SVs - reminded me of my old (1979) Ducati 900SS, though feeling more refined. That's why I bought this one when I came across it locally, and I'm really looking forward to having it running as it should.

I've taken all the jets, pilot screw,pilot jet etc out (glad I invested in the JIS screwdriver)and have started cleaning & inspecting everything. The gunge on the slide needle came off with solvent and scraping with my thumbnail, and it looks unworn. The pilot jets both have what looks like a purpose-made part obstruction, just down from the set of cross-holes (near the thread, not near the far end). If I hold them to the sky and peer through, it looks as if it is a kind of three-legged 'spider' type structure with a hole in the centre. Obviously, the through-hole being small and the part-obstruction being even smaller and halfway up the tube, it is difficult to see properly. I put a pin in from each end to measure the distance and it seems to be the same in each jet, and the obstructions look the same as far as I can see. Does this seem right? There's no mention of anything like this in the Clymer or Haynes manuals but I don;t want to risk trying to shift it if it's part of the jet!

I also have to ask how much force is needed to remove (a) the float needle seat and (b) the "stopper assembly" on the jet needle? I've used very small needle-nosed pliers on the jet needle retaining "stopper" but it doesn't want to pull out. It looks delicate. Should I used larger pliers and more clamping & pulling force? Should I twist as I pull?

With the float needle seat, is it normal practice to grip the exposed brass part using pliers or tiny Mole grips and twist & pull? This seems brutal, but there's nothing else to get hold of and no way of pushing from the other end.

Finally, there's what looks like a brass rod protruding into the float chambers. It is diagonal in relation to the jets, and the exposed end is close to the float pivot. It isn't pictured in the exploded diagram. Is it anything I should be removing / cleaning etc?

Sorry for so many questions, and thanks in advance for whatever answers you can give.

[Tigernut]

UPDATE: I've got the float needle housings out and also the slide needles (I was just being too timid first time). Now that I've given everything a basic clean with carb cleaner, GT85 etc, it all looks in excellent condition wear-wise - not a trace of mechanical wear on anything, which ties in with the 9000 miles the bike is supposed to have done since new. But the front carb's brass parts are all a bit green and I don;t like the look of them much. I can;t think how I can remove the oxide from the internal surfaces of jets etc, so I'll buy new ones from Robinsons (ie: proper genuine parts). I suppose, for consistency, I'll buy two sets and do the rear carb too, even though they look OK in there.

I still can't figure out what the brass rod is for - presumably it blocks a drilling?

Can anyone tell me what the tiny drilling immediately aft of the butterfly valve connects with? The one just ahead of connects with the pilot air screw. I guess the one just behind it connects to pilot fuel circuit, but when I squirt carb cleaner down it, I can't see it blowing out anywhere.

I will get the carb bodies ultrasonically cleaned next week. I intend to leave them connected in their frame, and also to leave the rubber hoses (fuel supply - disconnected from spigots but still rattling about inside the frame, as I don;t want to strain the rubber by disconnecting joints unless I really have to), and also the drain hoses, for the same reason. I also intend to leave the plastic parts on the bodies (not sure what they do, but hoping being immersed in the tank won;t affect them?)

[SV650rules]

E10 can affect 'rubber bits' in carbs and fuel system on some older bikes, found this on government website. Ethanol can also eat away

fibreglass fuel tanks.



https://check-vehicle-compatibility-...%20Motorcycles


Suzuki Motorcycles

2002 Model Years and onwards - all motorcycles can use E10 with no problems. 1992-2001 Model Years – some models can use E10 fuels and some models cannot. The user should contact their national importer for clarification. 1991 Model Years and earlier – RON 98 (no bio-fuel content) must be used.