best voltmeter connection point

[Bibio]

not if the stator is overloading the RR and the RR fails (or if the RR fails on its own) which in turn takes the battery out. this is why volt meters are a gadget. yes they can be an indication that a fault has occurred but its not going to stop things frying. by the time you notice that things are not right the damage is done.

but hey if it makes you sleep at night then bash on....

[SV650rules]

I like gadgets, got the voltmeter ( blue digits really show up in daylight ), and the rad temp monitor ( belt and braces on the AL7 as it already has a 6 bar temp gauge on the RH side of multi-function display, but does not read 'proper' degrees ) now where do I connect this oil pressure gauge to ?

[gadget]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

I like gadgets, got the voltmeter ( blue digits really show up in daylight ), and the rad temp monitor ( belt and braces on the AL7 as it already has a 6 bar temp gauge on the RH side of multi-function display, but does not read 'proper' degrees ) now where do I connect this oil pressure gauge to ?

I like a gadgets too ( hence the name), also in the process of fitting a rad temp gauge, just finalising a place for it to live. Can't have too much overkill imo.

[lukas_0]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-...2ehtml#SID=439 This has newer 4 pin 12v DC connector (Suzuki doubled up on the + and - pins in plug from 2004 -->)

@SV650rules thanks for the link. will get this RR as soon as will have a bit of free founds. for now 2nd hand OEM RR is working. the voltmeter will show when its time start to run off.

[Bibio]

use as much power as you can when riding e.g. always keep the lights on. the older RR is a shunt type so get hot while trying to keep the voltage correct via the regulator. its the heat that kills them.

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by lukas_0

@SV650rules thanks for the link. will get this RR as soon as will have a bit of free founds. for now 2nd hand OEM RR is working. the voltmeter will show when its time start to run off.

When I had the electrex world series type delivered it didn't have the 30 amp fused 'direct to battery lead' that is supposed to be supplied, so I emailed them and they dispatched it same day FOC and it arrived a day later. The plugs and sockets fitted to the RR were the same as the ones on bike, but plastic locking tabs were on wrong side to lock ( the plug profile, pin pattern and spacing were the same, but locking tabs were 'opposite hand ), so I used the direct to battery lead ( which I wanted to do anyway, which meant the plug and socket on the battery charging side now fitted each other, and for the 3 pin ( 3 yellow ) stator plug and socket they did plug together and I used a cable tie to lock them together. I did have a bit of email correspondence with electrex world and sent them photos of the problem. In the end if you use the direct to battery lead as they recommend that bit is fine, and by now the stator plug may have been changed now to allow the locking tabs to line up, otherwise the two halves do fit, and the cable tie has been on for a while now with no drama ( just to say that with the RR they do supply a new plug body and crimp / solder pins for the stator wires, and if you original plug was melted and you used that it would plug into the bit that goes to RR and lock OK ). Other than that the 2 x M6 bolts holding the heatsink to frame need to be 10mm longer than the ones on the original RR because heatsink is a bit thicker, but hole centres were fine.