Emulators.. which ones?, pros/cons

I'm going to pick bike up now.. i will report back

Well i gotta say, it actually feels better!.. so thats 20w of silkolene rst and 130mm air gap, 8.5 linear K-tech spring.. I think I'm going to stop playing with it now and just ride it.

[Bibio]

glad your happy. enjoy the ride

Thanks.. still got the rear shock to play around with, but pretty sure that'll work out ok with sone tweaking.. oh abd still need to adjust TPS

[DomP]

I fitted YSS emulators to my pointy S with welded rebound holes and drilled out damper rod holes then silkolene 7.5w oil. I don't remember the oil level but I put shorter spacers in. Certainly a hell of a lot better than standard but can be a little harsh on rougher roads.

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[Bibio]

Originally Posted by DomP

I fitted YSS emulators to my pointy S with welded rebound holes and drilled out damper rod holes then silkolene 7.5w oil. I don't remember the oil level but I put shorter spacers in. Certainly a hell of a lot better than standard but can be a little harsh on rougher roads.

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the harshness is due to the emulators popper valve not being set properly.

[embee]

In myNC700 Honda I have the Debrix, and another owner has used the YSS. We've discussed our experiences with settings at great length.
We've both found the holes in the valve disc need increasing substantially to get sensible slow damping with sensible oil (I use Silkolene RSF7.5W)). We've both ended up with 4 holes at typically 2.8mm dia (slightly different in each but in that parish).
Also the valves came with much stiffer valve springs than ideal for road use, being typically around 60 lb/in. Racetech suggest 40 lb/in (7N/mm) is likely to be suitable for road use, and that is what I currently have fitted, the other chap has gone down to 25 lb/in. I have some of these lower rate springs to try, I find even at 40 lb/in the preload tends to be quite low just to avoid harshness on knobbly surfaces, 25 lb/in might make it easier to get that tuned out, physically more preload turns but lower rate once the disc starts to lift so accommodating the fast bumps.
You need to read up on the tuning principles and be prepared for some trial and error.
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/E...%20They%20Work
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/E...Tuning%20Guide

[Bibio]

the bypass holes are like the compression adjusters on cartridge forks. the more you open them up the less control of dive you get, these are only for slow velocity tuning. the valve/shim stack is for high velocity (bumps) which the popper valve on emulators does.

a lot of people make the mistake of thinking that the 'clickers' (slow velocity) on their forks are for 'comfort' when in fact they are there to tune the chassis movement during braking/accelerating. to get 'comfort' requires the valves/shim stacks (high velocity) to be altered. the same principles can be transferred to emulators.

i'm actually starting to think that it might be possible to create a shim stack to replace the spring. this would give different rates with high/med/low adjustment depending on the shim stack and the separator shims in the stack.

i dont know why someone hasn't come up with a valve/shim emulator that sits inside the damper rod.

[DomP]

Originally Posted by Bibio

the harshness is due to the emulators popper valve not being set properly.

They behave nicely on smoother bumps just not rutted Herefordian pot holed roads. I suppose I could remove them and back the spring off a 1/4 turn but what a messy job!

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[Bibio]

nothing works on deep potholes unless you spend mega bucks