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Old 04-12-04, 09:07 PM   #11
Baldyman
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I'd get a Remus Revolution.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHH YEEEEEEEEEEEEEES \/ \/ \/ \/
Been as happy as a sand boy since I put mine on. Excellent value and sound, see my comments http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=13725 Listen to Cloggsy's sound bites.
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Old 05-12-04, 02:23 AM   #12
stevelondon1979
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2 months and only 400 miles?? I've had mine about 4 weeks and having to be prised off with a crowbar lol. The change after the 1st service is sweet, i've noticed a definate step change in performance, and nice not to be limited to 68mph.

As to your exhaust question, I've had a rene oval titanium can put on and it sounds and looks lovely. Baffle still in and it's plenty loud enough and road legal. £275 and the service from the guys there was excellent - no fitting charge. Plus the ride out to SE London/Kent is cool too.

Finally, from another thread, the hamicad is what you need. It's bloody fiddly, and I'm glad I had someone who knew their way around the bike helping/telling me what to do. Still took 1/1/2 hours!! Result is good, but now I'm stuck as to how small a plate to put on!!
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Old 05-12-04, 03:23 AM   #13
Muttley
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Originally Posted by stevelondon1979
2 months and only 400 miles??
A mate of mine has had his K4 for around 7 months and has only just got up to 350 miles.

Its not that he's a FWB (he did the last 150 miles during the last week), but he rarely gets the chance to ride it.
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Old 05-12-04, 09:36 AM   #14
Jabba
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Default Re: SV650s k4 end-can/ dubble bubble/ tyres/ running in/

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Originally Posted by jj003
never touch brakes mid corner, yes, but sometimes i come into a tight slow corner too fast, and instinctivley go for brakes, otherwise goin to run outa road, maybe i need to do more counter steering..and lean more, trusting the bike, but always think it gonna go from under me..
I think you'd benefit from a weekend on a Bikesafe course run by your local Police.

One of the things that they teach you is cornering technique, including vanishing point assessment/observation.

The others are right - only use your brakes mid-corner if absolutely necessary in an emergency. Go round on an even throttle and trust the bike to go where you're looking, opening the throttle (gently if necessary) as the corner opens out and the bike becomes more upright.
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Old 05-12-04, 05:16 PM   #15
jj003
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Default Re: SV650s k4 end-can/ dubble bubble/ tyres/ running in/

yea problem is when one comes into a surprise corner too fast, not that the i am riding fast, but that the corner is tighter than anticipated, usually around the city and one runs out of road and feels a total ass...j
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Old 05-12-04, 05:38 PM   #16
coombest
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Default Re: SV650s k4 end-can/ dubble bubble/ tyres/ running in/

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Originally Posted by jj003
yea problem is when one comes into a surprise corner too fast, not that the i am riding fast, but that the corner is tighter than anticipated, usually around the city and one runs out of road and feels a total ass...j


Learn to use the 'vanishing point' technique!

Look as far into the corner as you can see and you will notice the place where the two sides (edges/kerbs) of the road appear to meet in the distance...

Keep an eye on this point.

If it appears to get closer to you, the corner is tightening - slow down!

If it appears to keep the same distance from you, the corner is one of a constant radius, so there's no need to slow down/speed up mid-corner

If it appears to get further away from you, the corner is opening uo - Nail it!!!


This technique is VERY easy to master and is 100% accurate (OK, maybe less so in very built up areas, but at least it will give you a good idea of how the corner is progressing... It will become second nature if you keep doing it and it will not take any concentration to do it!
It is a necessary survival technique IMO.

HTH
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Old 05-12-04, 05:41 PM   #17
coombest
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Also, if it's in a more built up area, keep a really good eye on the road markings...

The lines in the middle of the road will get longer, with smaller gaps between them if he corner is more dangerous or if it tightens.
Also on more dangerous pieces of fast road you will tend to find solid (no stopping) white lines at the side of the road.

I hope I'm not teaching anyone to 'suck eggs' here but it sometimes helps to re-itterate the obvious!
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Old 07-12-04, 04:04 PM   #18
johnnyuk
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When I ran in my Fazer 600 the 1 st 200 miles kept it 4000 rev's or less. then after that. I varies the rev's from1000 to maximum.up 'n' down the rev's and gears.when I say max/rev's I did'nt keep there for long. now she run's sweet as a nut I've had 140mph on the clock and it still had more to go. I did it once after I've done about 1500 miles just to see what she'll do.most of my speed's are around 75/85 mph ,when going for a blast
on my own I may do more but not often.speed do nothing for me,I like the acceleration /handling.when the time comes for me to get a SV 650 I'll be aiming for more low down torque in other words less swaping gears when going up hill and for 2 up.if the bike ends up doing only 100mph thats fine for me.I'll look into it when the times come's. John
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Old 09-12-04, 01:48 PM   #19
Rich Curtis
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jj03

Regards to avoid running wide on corners, try this -

- Use vanishing point as already described

- Look where you want to go (not where you don't), avoid looking at the road immediately ahead of you.

- Position your bodyweight ready for the corner before you enter the corner (lean towards the inside), but obviously keep going straight until ready to turn in.

- When counter steering only push the bar with one hand, relax the other. This is because you will be sub-contiously be tensing up your arms (effectively making it more difficult to turn in). Deliberately relaxing one arm makes a suprising difference.

- Avoid touching the brakes - if running wide adjust your line by pushing the bar further. On decent roads nearly all modern bikes will touch down the pegs before sliding out.

- Lastly - Ride slower

I'm no expert, this is just re-itterating what I've read elsewhere and works for me.

Rich
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Old 09-12-04, 02:59 PM   #20
pegasus
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i agree with lee simmons you shoudnt have to use the rear brake only for slow manoevres....when you use the back brake at speed you shift momentum and weight to the front which causes lightweight at the rear..hence.. lose of grip on rear tyre..your instructor should have pointed this out...good luck anyway... and------
LEARN TO USE YOUR BRAKES PROPERLY.
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