Must go faster! - SV650.org

12-11-06, 10:16 PM

Errrr I like 142 but want to go quicker on my K5 so gentleman please give me some suggestions....i want enough grunt to keep up with an R6.....well almost anyway! And no I dont wanna get an r6 blah blah blah! Keep it simple peeps!

12-11-06, 10:20 PM

stay off long straight roads and stick to the twistey's, il4's couldnt leave me on my 650sk3. on the straights there gone

12-11-06, 10:29 PM

Big bore kits, blueprinting, port & polishing, no doubt the more knowledgable members of the forum can help more specifically. Though from what I've read there is not much you can really do. Though feel free to correct me everyone.

What about improving your riding skills? I have no idea what your riding is like (bound to be better than mine!) but even the most experienced rider has room for improvement. This is something you could carry over to another bike

rictus01 · 12-11-06, 10:36 PM

don't ever accurately measure your top speed you will be disappointed, just be happy with what your speedo says

Cheers Mark.

fizzwheel · 12-11-06, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ward8124

i want enough grunt to keep up with an R6.....well almost anyway!

IMHO you'll never do it. Just accept the SV for what it is and ride it to make the most of its strengths. I dont know much about bigbore kits etc etc. So I wont comment. IMHO best thing you can do if you havent already is sort out the front end so the bike handles better.

An average rider on the SS600 will whup the a*re of an average rider on an SV...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ward8124

And no I dont wanna get an r6 blah blah blah! Keep it simple peeps!

Thats fair enough, why not look at upgrading to a bigger twin if thats your bag...

IMHO of course.

12-11-06, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ward8124

i want enough grunt to keep up with an R6..... Keep it simple peeps!

get a thou

13-11-06, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zedleppelin1981

Big bore kits, blueprinting, port & polishing.

Blueprinting will not do anything. All this means is stripping the engine and making sure the components meet the manufacturers design tolerances. Big bore kits will give you more power and torque. Gas flowing the head is very difficult to get right especially when sometimes you want more top end power and other times low down torque. Likewise with a modified cam

You need to find out from previous tuners what worked and what didn't. Your best bet would be the people who have mini twin racers who may have modified them if that is allowed in that class of racing.

If you don't want an R6 you could always go for the new Ducati 1098, now that would be cool

Tim.

northwind · 13-11-06, 01:34 AM

You'd need a bucket of top-end power, and higher gearing to boot. Unrealistic amount of work really. Performing better within the original operating band is easy enough, but pushing beyond that needs more. Cams and breathing mods stop the SV from runing out of puff before the redline- mine keeps on going long past where a standard one gives up, but it still takes a looooong time to rev out. If top speed's your fix, chop the SV in for a Blackbird or older ZX.

And as Rictus mentioned, don't think too hard about what your 142 actually is

RingDing · 13-11-06, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by I'm_a_Newbie

Quote:

Originally Posted by zedleppelin1981

Big bore kits, blueprinting, port & polishing.

Blueprinting will not do anything. All this means is stripping the engine and making sure the components meet the manufacturers design tolerances.

Don't think that is strictly true. Blueprinting is the first step in any serous tuning, but makes a difference on its own. Tony Scott (used to tune Honda UK's RC's etc) used to get featured in PB quite a bit and the first thing he always did was to blueprint the engine. I'm pretty sure PB did a comparison of standard versus blueprint and were amazed by the difference, smoother and more torquey.

13-11-06, 07:49 AM

IMO, blue printing is not nearly as important as it was when I was a lad. CNC machining at the factories puts the machines near perfect stock. Balancing the crankset and pistons may still be a good bet, but even this is pretty well handled by new manufacturing technology. We used to send motors off for a "blueprint and balance", made a very noticable difference in my 79-1/2 Honda 750 DOHC four valve. Not so much any more (unless you are buying a new Ural, Dneiper, Royal Enfield, or the low end Chinese manufacturers).

12-11-06, 10:16 PM	#1
Ward8124 Guest Posts: n/a	Must go faster! Errrr I like 142 but want to go quicker on my K5 so gentleman please give me some suggestions....i want enough grunt to keep up with an R6.....well almost anyway! And no I dont wanna get an r6 blah blah blah! Keep it simple peeps!

12-11-06, 10:36 PM	#4
rictus01 Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: South London Posts: 9,799	don't ever accurately measure your top speed you will be disappointed, just be happy with what your speedo says Cheers Mark. __________________ Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride!

13-11-06, 01:34 AM	#8
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	You'd need a bucket of top-end power, and higher gearing to boot. Unrealistic amount of work really. Performing better within the original operating band is easy enough, but pushing beyond that needs more. Cams and breathing mods stop the SV from runing out of puff before the redline- mine keeps on going long past where a standard one gives up, but it still takes a looooong time to rev out. If top speed's your fix, chop the SV in for a Blackbird or older ZX. And as Rictus mentioned, don't think too hard about what your 142 actually is __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

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12-11-06, 10:20 PM	#2
kwak zzr Guest Posts: n/a	stay off long straight roads and stick to the twistey's, il4's couldnt leave me on my 650sk3. on the straights there gone

12-11-06, 10:29 PM	#3
zedleppelin1981 Guest Posts: n/a	Big bore kits, blueprinting, port & polishing, no doubt the more knowledgable members of the forum can help more specifically. Though from what I've read there is not much you can really do. Though feel free to correct me everyone. What about improving your riding skills? I have no idea what your riding is like (bound to be better than mine!) but even the most experienced rider has room for improvement. This is something you could carry over to another bike

13-11-06, 07:49 AM	#10
Paul C Guest Posts: n/a	IMO, blue printing is not nearly as important as it was when I was a lad. CNC machining at the factories puts the machines near perfect stock. Balancing the crankset and pistons may still be a good bet, but even this is pretty well handled by new manufacturing technology. We used to send motors off for a "blueprint and balance", made a very noticable difference in my 79-1/2 Honda 750 DOHC four valve. Not so much any more (unless you are buying a new Ural, Dneiper, Royal Enfield, or the low end Chinese manufacturers).