Exactly how easy is it to do an oil change?

So I have been waiting patiently all winter for my OH to help me do an oil and oil filter change on my bike, but so far I have been unsuccessful. Getting to the stage now where I am thinking I should just get on with it on my own.

But I am rubbish with all things practical! So I wanted your opinions on how easy it is for a complete numpty to do.

I did an oil & filter change on my old Kwak GPZ, but that was with OH's step by step instructions and a Haynes manual. I won't have either of those this time! And even then I struggled to get the right tools each time - I don't know a socket from a spanner! (It is all very well the Haynes manual saying remove that but it doesn't tell you how! Or where in OH's toolkit I would find the appropriate tool!)

What do you reckon, is it dead obvious and something I can do? Or am I likely to mess something up if I try? Do I need to invest in a Haynes manual? Or do I just nag OH?

Yea, its easy on the SV. The oil filter will probably come off by hand, and the sump plug is easily located underneath. Just be carefull not to round off the sump-plug if its being a bit difficult to come undone and be carefull not to overtighten it when you do it up

The new oil filter will also screw on by hand, no need for tools to make it tight

Matt

aye its a very easy job 2 do the oil and filter!

Its one of the easyest things you can do.
Run the bike so it is at normal running temp. Then let it cool a little so you dont burn yourself.
Simply just a case of positioning a catch tray under your bike, remove the sump plug and leave the oil to drain out. Be careful it may still be hot.
Then remove the oil filter with a strap wrench.There may be a bit of residual in there.
Then get fresh oil and smear a bit over the sealing ring on the new filter and screw back in and tighten it a little with the strap wrench.
Refit the sump plug and tighten. But dont over tighten. A white knuckle is enough.
Remove the filler cap and top up oil to the correct level. (make sure when you are checing your bike is upright and level)
Refit filler cap.
Run the bike for a few minutes again to check the pressure light doesnt come on and for it to circulate. Let it cool and re check the level.
Hey presto.

Excuse the terms below, no offence is intended

Tools required:

Oil filter wrench (I personally use the 'band type' - looks like a long socket with material in a loop going through the socket).
Rachet & socket (IIRC, this is a 15mm socket? - Someone will be along in a minute to correct me).
Old washing up bowl.

Other materials required:
New oil.
New oil filter.

Put the old washing up bowl under the sump plug (look for a bolt under the engine block - that's the 'sump plug').
Undo the sump plug (make sure the rachet is set to "L" and you can't go wrong). Until you get about half way out, it'll look like you're just taking a bolt out. Then all of a sudden black stuff will gush out. Be careful not to drop the sump plug in the oil... I've done that countless times & not been impressed with myself!
This is the part that depends on you oil filter tool... Put the tool around the filter and loosen it (lefty loosy righty tighty!). Be careful not to tighten instead of loosen, as you can ruin the threads. Patience, not brute force. Some more oil will spill out of the engine when you take the filter off.

Wait a while for the oil to drain.

Take your new oil filter, and smear some oil on the filter. Then screw it by hand into the place that you took the old one from. Use the oil filter tool to tighten it about half a turn (maybe a full turn) but this isn't important, as some people only do it tight by hand.
Put the sump plug back in the hole it came out of, and tighten it snugly (don't over tighten, just nice & snug using the rachet).
Open the filler cap (right side of the engine), pour in oil and stop when it gets to the "full" level.
Put the cap back in, and start the engine. Let it warm a little, then turn it off again. Check the oil level, and top up a little (to the "full" level again). Turn on the engine, let it warm a little, turn it off. You should have a sensible oil level, but keep repeating this cycle until you're happy. Oil should always be between the "low" and "full" marks. Don't overfill, or you're undoing that bolt under the engine again and dropping oil into your washing up bowl again!

And yes, I am bored in work at the moment.

[pmapp]

This was one of the first jobs I did all on me tod

This sounds like a job for Blue

[Viney]

Originally Posted by gemma1675

So I have been waiting patiently all winter for my OH to help me do an oil and oil filter change on my bike, but so far I have been unsuccessful. Getting to the stage now where I am thinking I should just get on with it on my own.

But I am rubbish with all things practical! So I wanted your opinions on how easy it is for a complete numpty to do.

I did an oil & filter change on my old Kwak GPZ, but that was with OH's step by step instructions and a Haynes manual. I won't have either of those this time! And even then I struggled to get the right tools each time - I don't know a socket from a spanner! (It is all very well the Haynes manual saying remove that but it doesn't tell you how! Or where in OH's toolkit I would find the appropriate tool!)

What do you reckon, is it dead obvious and something I can do? Or am I likely to mess something up if I try? Do I need to invest in a Haynes manual? Or do I just nag OH?

A spanner, is usualy flat with u shapes at both ends usualy different sizes or ring at one end, and a U shape at the other (Thats called a combination spanner)

A socket comprises of 2 parts. The Ratchet. Bar type thing with a suqare whassit sticking out at a 90 degree angle at one end. This rotates in either direction. You change direction buy turning a dial, or flicking a littel lever on the other side. The second parts are called sockets. They come in loads of sizes and have a nut shaped (6 sides) or a star shape in one end, and a square hole in the other. Again, these come in differnt sizes. If him in doors is cool, he will have whats called a 3/8 socket set.

All sizes should be in whold numbers like 12,13,15,18 etc this is whats known as a metric set, and not fractions. This is imperial and will not fit, or will damage nuts n stuff.

Nuts and bolts go in 2 directions. This is called clockwise(right) and anti clokwise(Left). As a rule of thumb, and to use Jambos Saying Left LooseY
Righty Tighty

The oil change is as baph said.

Appologies if this is too simple and caused offence...just trying to help.

[SoulKiss]

As above but try and get a new crush washer for the sump plug.

As Baph says, but I'd just add that after you've removed the sump plug, then the filter, you can further speed up the draining by undoing the little black plug (where you'd put new oil in) on the right hand side of the engine.

My old sump plug washer was used about 7 times before it was replaced and I never had a leak. I don't think it matters that much so long as you are tightening it up to the specificed torque using a torque wrench. A lot of aftermarket filters don't come with new washers (although OE ones usually do).

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Changing the oil and filter is a very easy job to do, providing nothing goes wrong.

I got the correct sv oil filter spanner when I got the bike. It's like a large hexagon sided cap that fits over the end of the oil filter - about £5 from Busters and much easier to use than the strap type. Dunno about untightening it and tightening by hand though - I couldn't and I've got a fairly strong grip.

Since becoming acquainted with the softness of the SV nuts and bolt heads I wouldn't use anything but a 6 point socket on them, wherever possible.

Remember when unscrewing the sump plug that it is anticlockwise when looking from underneath.

Last tip - wear some protective gloves when doing the change and keep some wipe up rag handy. I got 50 pairs of single use gloves from Wickes for £3.50.