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Old 12-04-20, 06:57 PM   #131
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

I thought I could do no more to the rearsets while in quarantine but I was wrong. The only thing I have missing was the linkage connecting to the engine. In the earlier pictures I have been using the one in the MaCrane kit but need to make my own as the OEM lever connects directly to the shift shaft.



I did consider making my own but I don't think I have the time and tooling to make a broach so my idea was to use an original YSR lever and weld a bracket to it as in the kit. Trouble is finding YSR gear levers is not easy. So I have been trying to do a little research as to if other bikes levers would fit. All I had to go on was that the shift shaft has 30 splines and a OD of about 11.3mm but my research didn't locate any definitive answer if other bikes levers would.



My assumption was that to save cost on tooling Yamaha would use as much as they can across multiple models. But I cant prove it from part numbers. So today I was digging around in the store room and found a new shift shaft from a 1989 TZR125. It looked about the same size and looked like the same number of splines.



Thankfully it fits. Looks like Yamaha uses the same pattern on multiple bikes as I know from pattern replacement levers they fit multiple models, basically I think I can get any lever or linkage to base my version on from any of the small capacity Yamaha 2T bikes of the era. To eBay it is...
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Old 19-04-20, 06:22 PM   #132
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

So the throttle cable, this has been giving me more trouble than I thought.

My original plan was to use a quick action throttle and had one sent over from TCR, but I didn't like the look of it. To me it was a little cheap and the chrome wouldn't really sit well with the rest of the bike.



Looking into things I realise its just a universal fit and so all I need is another universal quick action throttle thats more in keeping with the right look. So at the NEC Bike Show last year I got some discount on a Domino throttle. Its looks better but there is a problem...

Apart from the size of it, and the other one for comparison (essentially they work by increasing the cam size of the throttle tube making each degree of rotation pull more cable then standard, hence a quicker action) risking interference with the fairings it is the cable that is the real issue.



Both universal kits use a single cable, the YSR uses 3. The first main cable then goes to a splitter one of which carries on to the carb and the other splits off to the oil pump. I cant use the first OEM cable on the QA throttles, and as there is no splitter I can't then use the QA cables with the rest of the stock setup.



I've been thinking about this for a few days as to what to do. Options I've considered include making my own cables as I know you can get kits out there, or using a cable from another bike such as a TZR125. But the more I thought about it the more I didn't like the size of the throttle housing. So I've decided to keep to the OEM setup. So now the next problem, the original cables are a little on the old side and not the smoothest and are no longer available new. But this has been solved by using the carb connector from the Kitaco kit, a NOS oil pump cable I found, and lots and lots of WD40 down the main cable resulted in a free moving cable.

I've connected it up to the carb which was more of a struggle than I was expecting as the spring is quite tight and needs to be held almost fully back to the carb housing before connecting to the throttle slide and having the retainer seated. All this is done with the throttle fully connected at the splitter as due to the cable lengths can't be connected after. But all that has been completed and added to the bike.



All that is left to do is to replace the throttle tube with a new one as I think this is still available, will order one after the lockdown. I have new grips so thats ok. But the housing is a little on the old and worn side so when the workshop is back open that will have a run through the sandblaster and a trip to the spray booth.
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 19-04-20, 06:51 PM   #133
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Time for something more interesting than cables, fairings. I'll start with the rear. The fairing is a straight copy of the original, all the rivets from the mounting points are their which is good as it shows me where to drill, but so is the battery box lid as well as a rather pronounced split line from the mould. My plan then is to drill all the mounting holes, open up the rear lights with a hole saw, and then sand and fill ready for paint. Plans haven't gone to plan.



Drilling the holes wasn't to bad though I have a couple of cracks to repair where I think I was a bit heavy handed with the drill. Thats not a problem and can be fixed, its the first time I've drilled any fibre glass. Sanding wasn't great, basically the dust is the problem as I don't have a decent dust mask here. I only have a few very cheap paper ones that fall apart taking them out of the packet. I have a better one at the workshop but can't access that, and due to the situation, I've got no chance of buying one any time soon. So that and the mess it made in the garage has put that on hold.



But I have been able to fit the seat unit to the bike. Again this was a problem, the unit won't go over the shock reservoir, there isn't enough flex in the panel. So that reservoir needs relocating.



I don't have many options due to the length of the hose so mounting it on the outside of the frame rail looks to be the only option. I'll start working on some mounting bracket designs. Its also wrapped in kitchen roll to protect it while I wrestle with the rest of the fairings as I will need to fit the rest of the bodywork to ensure there isn't going to be any clearance issues...
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 16-05-20, 06:14 PM   #134
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

So while we're all still lockedup I don't have a lot to do on the YSR project bike as with the workshop out of action I can't play with the big machines so I've reduced myself to playing with Fusion360 in my spare time. But the way I've set my desk up means that I keep seeing the front end of the YSR and it got me thinking...



Basically the only thing that I've not really modified is the front brake setup, yes it will have a HEL line, and a full rebuild, but its still running the OEM master cylinder and single piston sliding front caliper. So having recently completed a Brembo conversion on the Grom I wondered what could be done along those lines with the YSR. All that was needed on the Grom was a new caliper, a longer line, and a conversion bracket for mounting surely something similar for the YSR would be possible?

Now I'm no engineer but I've been reading build threads for some time and picked up on a few things. For the caliper all I need to do is pick one and ensure that it mounts in the middle of the disc, that the pad area should match up, and there is clearance for anything around, then all I need to check is that the radius of the caliper matches with the disc via the conversion bracket, and one other thing that I'll come back to.



The first question to answer though is what caliper to use. And my first thought was what about the same as the Grom a Brembo P2 34, it works well for that bike, why wouldn't it here. Now I could have taken one off the Grom but that would be a pain, thankfully I have what I believe is an OEM caliper that came with an interesting swingarm I'm intending for another project so I took that off and offered it up to the YSR.

Though as a side note I'll not be using this caliper as it appear to have had some modification of sorts. Can't tell if that grind is intentional or not, but I'd say thats scrap.

Anyway using a bit of card I've drawn a rough pattern of what the mount could look like. With the caliper lined up in the middle of the disc there looks to be clearance around, the closest object being the hub bolts at the back but with some rough measurements it looks to have about 3mm clearance. The pad area looks roughly the same as the discs swept area and I think I can get a good point of contact by pivoting the caliper via the bracket.



The next thing for me to do is to make a mockup bracket but that will have to wait for the workshop to reopen so while I wait I thought I'd throw the idea out to the hive mind to see if there is anything I'm missing or should be considering?

Now the only other think I can think off that I'm yet to address is the ratios. I know that the master cylinder and the caliper need to have some sort of match, but I don't know what that is, nor do I know what the OEM ratios are or even the Brembo. So any idea how I would find out or calculate this? And then with those numbers, what would good look like?
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 28-09-20, 12:03 AM   #135
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Well since the lockup ended and the workshop reopened I've been trying to get in as much as I can, but as usual its a question of finding the time around everything else particularly work as I've changed job role recently so as usual, that sort of explains the length between updates. That and it simply takes time to do all of this.



Anyway, progress. First was some bronze bushing in the levers on the test set to prove what I intend to do. That will wait until the end before I complete it for the set but needed the lever to move correctly in order to ensure things will work. Secondly I finished off some spacers. And thirdly I made some gear change linkage rods of different lengths (just got 4 to finish as I had to wait for some more metal to arrive).



One of the things I didn't get a chance to finish before we all got locked up was the return stopper for the rear brake. Using my mock up I based it on the kit and turned down a 22mm round and put an offset 6mm hole it it for the bolt. Trouble is it looked a bit plain so a 14mm end mill was taken halfway in opposite and in rotation to loose a little weight and add a little feature.



The other thing that needed to be sorted was the lever return spring. Firstly a couple of spacers to offset the spring from the main body with a spring seat added to them were turned down and cut to the right length. I then used Springs and Things to get an extension spring 30mm long 0.63mm thick and having a 6.3mm OD in stainless which worked quite well. I also placed an order with ACCU for stainless bolts of the right length as my local dealer isn't doing walk-ins at the moment, though I've not added them all in the photos yet.

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My thoughts then turned to the rear brake arm linkage. The one in the kit wouldn't fit as it was now too short as I'm using the longer swing arm and also didn't reach the lever on a straight path as I've changed the offset of the peg. So I needed to make my own. But before that I noticed a little change I needed to make, the original linkage sits below the swing arm, however that wouldn't work for me and following the kit you need to rotate it to the top and the simplest way to do this is to rotate the brake pin by 180°. The problem then is that the brake wear indicator dial doesn't line up with the markings on the brake plate casting. So I took the pin out and milled off one of the splines so that it then indicates. It was an interesting setup using a dividing head to align the pin with the cutter but it worked and the indicator now indicates.



Next was the linkage, basing it on the kit I ordered some 8mm stainless rod and started prototyping, it took 5 attempts to get where I wanted. I'll save you the detail but it was a combination of understanding the design, getting the bends right, getting their offsets, and keeping it straight, but I got there in the end. I start out with 330mm length of rod and drill and tap a M6 thread in one end, and at this point I can say Stainless Steel is horrendous to work with. Its so tough even to just drill the clearance hole, tapping it gets even worse. Because of the size I'm using a hand tapping set and that turns into a bit of exercise, and the heat it generates is phenomenal. But in the end I get the thread tapped. So now I flip the rod round in the lathe and take 120mm of it down to 6mm and then cut another M6 thread into the the end but only 60mm as the rest of it is needed as a spring seat.



That's all on the mill so next I turn all Arthur Brown and break out the blow torch. Putting a 45° bend in 8mm stainless is simply not possible using a simple 6-10mm pipe bender. However if you heat the rod to a nice cherry colour with a bit of force it is possible. Now I'm sure it is possible to cold bend it if you can apply the force, but I can't, and I know that heating it probably will change some of the properties of the rod, but I don't think it will impact my application. Anyway I set the bender up level in the vice with a height indicator for the end of the rod that helps later in keeping the rod straight and put the first bend in the rod at the end of the spring seat. I then rotate the rod round to put another bend in bringing the rod back straight, this is 40mm from the finish of the first bend or 115mm from end of the internal thread. With that all finished I removed the heat discoloration with some Autosol, 1200 grit sandpaper, and some WD40.



I also decided to make a Stainless Steel brake arm pin for the arm to pivot on, and replace the standard compression spring with a 83mm compression spring 1mm thick with a 9mm OD from Springs and Things that felt like it matched the force of the original. The final thing was to top it off with an adjuster bolt from TCR. Now I have considered making my own but its probably not a good idea to add to the workload as I need to finish the counterbores and then find a solution to the gear change linkage at the engine side. I have an idea and it involves the welder, stay tuned to hear my tales of arc eye...



Oh, and anyone ever done home anodising?
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"A little enthusiastic?"

May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

SH2 | 2MA | GROM | YSR
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Old 28-09-20, 08:51 PM   #136
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

I'm glad this thread is still going. The effort going into such a small bike is fascinating!
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Old 28-09-20, 11:28 PM   #137
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

Yep still going, still taking up a fair bit of my spare time and my front room.

Well tonight I managed to finish the remaining gear linkage rods. So here they all are:



And this is what takes the time doing 4 of everything. I ended up doing 4 of the main hanger plates and levers to give me a chance to mess up (which I do) and to learn from as this is all new to me. And as I have 4 of them I just decided to make 4 complete sets.

Each of these rods start out as 10mm stock which I then polish up and cut to length. Both ends are faced, chamfered, and drilled for an M6 thread. One end is given a standard tap the other is given a left handed thread, thats all on the lathe. Next I move to the mill and mill a 1mm flat on the end 7mm long then rotate the rod by 180° to mill another to fit a 8mm spanner for adjustment. At the opposite end I repeat this but starting at 90° from the first, this is all done via a collet block to make the rotations easier and means that the adjustment positions are opposite for easy of adjustment.

Next I want to finish the counterbores and pivot holes on the levers and hangers, but then I did get a small delivery:



Yes the observant among you can clearly recognise that is a gear lever for a year 2000 Yamaha YZ125. Don't worry there is madness behind my method.
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 29-09-20, 08:05 AM   #138
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

This is a great thread SH, and a fascinating rebuild. Seriously impressed with your attention to detail here.
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Old 10-12-20, 01:10 AM   #139
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

As usual the delay between updates and so on...

But linkages, I needed to replicate the kit linkage so bought a couple of YZ125 gear levers.



I cut the main leaver arm off and removed all the powdercoat so I was just left with the splined connector.



So then I got some steel flat bar and drilled and taped a hole.



Then using a TZR125 spline shaft as part of a jig I welded the spline connector to the taped and now corner rounded bar using the MIG welder.



And with a grinder and Dremmel brought the weld down to size smoothing things out.



I then test fitted it and decided the linkage was too long so made the remaining 3 shorter and using the TIG to weld the bar to the connector with better results. There are a couple of little low spots and I'm in two minds if I will do anything about them, but I am happy.



And the final test fit looks good.



Off camera I've had to remake the peg spacers, then finish all but one of the counterbores, as well as machining the lever pivot holes to 20mm, then make the bronze bushings to fit more than once to solve a deflection problem on the gear change where the toe peg bolt on the lever could scrape the linkage rod.

Next episode in the rearset build, I'm getting exhausted.
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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Old 13-12-20, 01:03 AM   #140
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Default Re: Project: 500GP

At the risk of tempting fate I can see the finish line in the distance for this part of the project so its time to think about the exhaust only because I need to drill the mounting hole to size on the brake rearset. So I dug out a DG Exhaust I bought for a good price and offered it up to the bike. Disaster, it doesn't fit. After a bit of head scratching it came down to a mid point mounting bracket that would not line up and it didn't make sense as to why. I decided to compare it to the original pipe and lining the mounting point up it was obvious to see where the difference was.



While everything else was correct the bracket wasn't. So I cut it off.

That resulted in the exhaust fitting, with some minor lower fairing modifications, but I have plans there so that's no bother. But it now is only supported at the head and the nut holding it to the engine so I needed a bracket for the rear. Surprisingly I had one that I'd recently removed from the mid point of the exhaust and decided to use that.



I welded it on to the exhaust to line up with the rearset mounting point that just so happened to already had a strengthening plate added to the exhaust in that spot. I would also like to say I think my welding is getting better, which will be useful for whats likely to be the next part of the bike I'm going to target. But anyway.



I think that looks quite good. Just need to sort out an anti-vibration isolator for the mount as well as decide on the hole side, I'm thinking M6 will suffice. Oh and as I fixed the slop in the gear lever I need to remake a couple of parts on the brake side in order to keep things symmetrical. Back to the lathe...
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May I add here, GG is awesome and I think I am in love with Stretchie...he rocks my world!

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