Hello (noobie)! - SV650.org

23-03-05, 08:20 AM

Hello everyone. I'm about to become an SV owner in a couple of days after a 2 year break from bikes. My last mount was a ZX-9R C1 which I liked a lot. I fancied something a bit different (and cheaper!) than the current crop of in-line fours and the SV looked like the "sensible" choice. I will pick up my new K3 on Friday or Saturday (need to get insurance). Does anyone have any specific tips on breaking in or should I just follow the manufacturer's instructions?

Thanks
John

23-03-05, 08:27 AM

The following is from Sport Rider magazine, (1990 ish. ) Hope it helps.

The first few hundred miles of a new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last..... We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption.

If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the breakin is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don't lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze.

Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down.

The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles.

Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple...........

I've broken in 4 bikes with the method above... I put 60k on 3 of them without any problems only 12k on my new bike so far. All ran very strong on the dyno for the breed and never burned a drop of oil so I'd have to say works for me.

23-03-05, 06:26 PM

Welcome to the site, i ran my bike in as per instructions.

Scoobs · 23-03-05, 06:54 PM

100 miles, job done, gradually increase RPM's. Up to you though mate.

Welcome

23-03-05, 07:07 PM

Welcome to the site.

I too am due to pick up my new SV on Friday and found the running instruction helpful although a bit fast paced, if you ask me.
Sounds almost like running in is sorted in about half a dozen or so short runs, surely its a case of building it up over approx. 1000 miles

Spiderman · 23-03-05, 10:50 PM

hi, welcome.

i bought used so cant help you there.

Just came to say hi

24-03-05, 10:54 AM

Hey Junior that is a really cool piece of info that you placed. with the bike I am thinking of getting,it will take me about 2 days using this method to get her home from the dealers!

24-03-05, 10:56 AM

Hello, haven't got a clue but i thought i'd say hello.

24-03-05, 07:09 PM

Controversial topic this one. I have always broken in new bikes as instructed by the manual to the first service and then used as I feel afterwards.

24-03-05, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SV Zukiman

Does anyone have any specific tips on breaking in or should I just follow the manufacturer's instructions?

I would (& did)... Mine is still as sweet as a nut... But then again & have only done 2700 miles

23-03-05, 08:20 AM	#1
SV Zukiman Guest Posts: n/a	Hello (noobie)! Hello everyone. I'm about to become an SV owner in a couple of days after a 2 year break from bikes. My last mount was a ZX-9R C1 which I liked a lot. I fancied something a bit different (and cheaper!) than the current crop of in-line fours and the SV looked like the "sensible" choice. I will pick up my new K3 on Friday or Saturday (need to get insurance). Does anyone have any specific tips on breaking in or should I just follow the manufacturer's instructions? Thanks John

23-03-05, 06:54 PM	#4
Scoobs Vipers Pillion Bitch Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Waterlooville Posts: 3,933	100 miles, job done, gradually increase RPM's. Up to you though mate. Welcome __________________ I look good, I mean really good! Hey everyone come and see how good I look!

23-03-05, 10:50 PM	#6
Spiderman Where the hell am I? Mega Poster Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Swingin' thru the urban jungle Posts: 7,451	hi, welcome. i bought used so cant help you there. Just came to say hi __________________ . "Computers are great! Not for communicating tho. They have one fundamental flaw ... they don't have eyebrows." AlpineCarStereo: you win ....... eeerrr ..... ummm ..... my undying support of you, the greatest Mod this forum has ever known. My Leige. davepreston: i bow to your modding godliness. vixis: He's this really cute Persian tea-boy, Im so not giving you his number :P

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23-03-05, 08:27 AM	#2
Junior Guest Posts: n/a	The following is from Sport Rider magazine, (1990 ish. ) Hope it helps. The first few hundred miles of a new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last..... We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption. If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the breakin is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don't lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down. The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple........... I've broken in 4 bikes with the method above... I put 60k on 3 of them without any problems only 12k on my new bike so far. All ran very strong on the dyno for the breed and never burned a drop of oil so I'd have to say works for me.

23-03-05, 06:26 PM	#3
bluebell Guest Posts: n/a	Welcome to the site, i ran my bike in as per instructions.

23-03-05, 07:07 PM	#5
GC-SV Guest Posts: n/a	Welcome to the site. I too am due to pick up my new SV on Friday and found the running instruction helpful although a bit fast paced, if you ask me. Sounds almost like running in is sorted in about half a dozen or so short runs, surely its a case of building it up over approx. 1000 miles

24-03-05, 10:54 AM	#7
Peter Henry Guest Posts: n/a	Hey Junior that is a really cool piece of info that you placed. with the bike I am thinking of getting,it will take me about 2 days using this method to get her home from the dealers!

24-03-05, 10:56 AM	#8
diamond Guest Posts: n/a	Hello, haven't got a clue but i thought i'd say hello.

24-03-05, 07:09 PM	#9
Stig Guest Posts: n/a	Controversial topic this one. I have always broken in new bikes as instructed by the manual to the first service and then used as I feel afterwards.