Installing YSS emulators on Curvy

[JaxintheUK]

I've just got around to sorting out my front forks and installing emulators. I bought 33.5mm YSS emulators and they don't fit well into the cup of the damper rod...just the tip of the seat fits. I was wondering if I could put an O ring around the emulator to create a good seal so it does it's job properly. Will it last in that environment, will it be a good fix? Not going to drill the damper rod unless I know that it'll work.

[johnnyrod]

https://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394375
Hmm. And don't drill the damper rods, at all, if they work the same way as the Racetech ones - I don't know why they put that in the instructions. Okay to clarify, Racetech say to drill out the last damping hole, all this does is ruin the rebound damping at full compression, do YSS say to do the same?

[JaxintheUK]

You have to drill out the damper rod holes to bypass the damping effect, the emulators take the place of the holes in the damper. I want them to work properly and seal at the end.

[johnnyrod]

Sounds like from the link I posted that they don't really fit properly. I have the Racetech ones and they drop straight onto the damper rod tops and fit fine (FWIW). For them, they only control the comp damping and leaves the rebound to the damper rods, but they have since revised their instructions and taken out the drilling part. If you do the drilling then you just make a mess of the rebound, which the cartridge doesn't affect anyway - it has a large one-way valve to stop it causing any rebound damping.

Just a thought, I don't know much about the YSS ones, but from googling they look awfully similar. You did read the link above, that they don't necessarily fit gen 1 SVs?

[glang]

We seem to be getting mixed up here as according to the Racetec info here:

https://racetech.com/page/title/Emul...%20They%20Work

the compression holes at the bottom should be increased to allow the emulator to take control of this damping then rebound is controlled, as previously, by the top small hole. With an emulator fitted if you want to change rebound some people recommend closing the top hole (the fork check valves leak so much that theres still enough oil flow) or using a thicker oil. This latter option will obviously also affect compression but can be adjusted for with the emulator.
The emulator should fit well in the top of the damper rod so that it cant move around too much but its not necessary for it to have a seal as the main flow of oil will still go through the emulator....

[garynortheast]

Have a look at this thread. It deals with the Debrix emulators a lot of us fitted 7 or 8 years back but they work the same way.

You need to open up the compression damping hole and seal up the rebound hole. Welding of the rebound hole was originally recommended; however I used JB Weld and 7 years later it's still firmly in place.

[aesmith]

I fitted the YSS 33.5mm valves to my pointy. That makes me think they're the wrong size for a curvy as from memory didn't the Debrix fit straight into a curvy but needed a bushing for the pointy?

[JaxintheUK]

I wasn't talking about the small rebound hole at the top of the damper, just the 4 main holes that need drilling out to 10 or 11mm.



Thanks Glang, I wasn't sure if the emu had to sit in the cup firmly. I want to use a rubber O ring to ensure stability as only the top of the emu fits into the cup, it will be held down with the spring and spacer anyway.


They are definitely the wrong size base for the K1 curvy, but with a bit of help and bodging, hopefully they'll work.

[glang]

I think o rings will get mashed pretty quickly as theyll have to take the full spring force when hitting bumps and things, or will the o rings just be to keep the emulators centred (you deffo dont want them to move while riding)?
Also will you be making any changes to the rebound holes as Im preparing to do mine and thinking of tapping them to fit screws?

[JaxintheUK]

Just to keep them centered, don't want them slipping sideways. I'm going to experiment with the rebound hole...I'll leave it alone and see what it feels like, if I don't like it I'll put some steelmate in it, that's what others have done. A bit nervous about drilling the damper if if's not gonna work properly...don't want to have to buy more shocks if I mess it up.