Tyre life

[pedro3178]

Guys what’s the maximum life you would run a tyre, even if it still has good tread and depth.

[Bibio]

as long as its not cracking and or bulging then its good to go. if its really old say 8+ years then just take it easy till its worn out.



check the valves are not cracking by moving them side to side and also check the cores are tight.


if you think they need changed then its always best. that way your mind will be at ease.

[pedro3178]

My friends neighbour is selling a bike. He doesn’t know much about them and obviously I can’t visit just now. I asked for as many pics as possible including the dot stamp on the tyres. One tyre is year marked 03 and the other 04 , although he said they looked perfect, I told him I wouldn’t ride a 17 year old tyre.

[SV650rules]

I was reading a few articles the other day and although the rubber continues to cure and harden after the tyre leaves the mould, apparently a company can sell you a tyre up to 5 years old as 'new' - I also read that the rubber hardened and cracked even when stored out of light and in cool place, due to the lack of normal movement of the tyre rubber keeping the rubber supple by evenly dispersing the oils in the rubber. If the bike has not been used for a long time and the tyres were resting on the ground they may well have developed flat spots as well.

Quote from Conti article in link

In order to spot a tyre that is past its prime, try sticking your fingernail into the tread. The texture of the tyre should be soft like rubber, not hard like plastic. Try comparing your tyres to some that you know are fresh to get a good feel for it. In order to minimise the effects of tyre ageing once they are fitted to your bike ensure that you inflate the tyres right up so that they keep their shape when the bike is being stored. You should also use front and rear paddock stands to keep both wheels off the ground. This will stop pressure from the weight of the bike creating flat spots on your tyres

https://www.tirebuyer.com/education/...om-dry-rotting

https://www.conti-bike.co.uk/tyre-te...re-shelf-life/

As Bibio says, if they are cracking or you feel they need changing then change them for peace of mind, I just got a set of Avon Storm 3D ( Dual compound ) on my AL7 - some on here have had over 13K miles out of them.

£152 for a pair and £12 each for fitting, made in England in week 50/2019 - fresh as they come. Bad news is the present lock down is severely curtailing riding.

[Davva2004]

Seeing as your tires are the only thing attaching you to the road surface, and unlike a car a blowout on a bike is immediately catastrophic, then get new tires. They are certainly cheap enough to be an absolute no brainer replacement.

[SV650rules]

Bit more about tyres and how they are constructed and what all the numbers mean.

https://www.rideapart.com/articles/2...orcycle-tires/

[pedro3178]

Some good information here which I have passed on. My advice to him was to point out the date of manufacture and either knock some money off the bike or the seller simply puts new tyres on the bike. Personally my advice was to pick his own tyres.

[SV650rules]

For the tyres alone I would get the seller to knock at least £150 / £200 off the bike - worry is if the tyres are 17 years old and still loads of tread it has probably been stored for ages, and what else will need replacing - probably the battery is FUBAR as well ( another £60+ ), the brakes may be seized because brake fluid has not been changed for many years and it absorbs moisture and corrodes stuff, electrical connectors corroded - the list can be a long one. Can your mate get a more modern bike that ain't gonna need a lot of refurb and ££'s - it may be cheap but to get it up to scratch and through MOT etc may need a bit of money.

The best way to treat a bike or car is to use it regularly ( but with a bike only in the dry preferably as they are not as waterproof as cars ).