Bike fallen off Abba Stand.

[lazymanc]

Originally Posted by flymo

Surely for the sake of £4 its worth ordering a new part, you'll see exactly how the broken one is mounted.

Then remove and replace with the engine in situe. At worst you may need to take it to a mechanic to remove the old one.

The pictures aren't very clear due to my crappy phone camera, but it's not the bolt that has sheared, it's the casing around the bolt which has broken away. It's not a removable part, it's actually a piece of the main engine casing. The bolt itself (oil stand union, #12 in the pic above) has actually survived intact albeit with the broken bit of engine casing still attached.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by lazymanc

The pictures aren't very clear due to my crappy phone camera, but it's not the bolt that has sheared, it's the casing around the bolt which has broken away. It's not a removable part, it's actually a piece of the main engine casing. The bolt itself (oil stand union, #12 in the pic above) has actually survived intact albeit with the broken bit of engine casing still attached.

Ah I see, I can just make it out in the picture. Ignore my last then

I would tap out the remainder of the oil port in the casing right down to where it begins to narrow.

Then get a piece of 20mm (outside diameter, assuming that's the size of the existing boss) steel tube cut to the length of the existing "oil stand" PLUS the length of the extra thread you've just tapped.

Then get the outside of the tube threaded with a die of the correct pitch.

Screw the tube into the casing (with a little loctite, so it doesn't unscrew with the filter next oil change) and thread the oil filter on as normal.

Job done.

It should be dirt cheap at your local engineering works.

Edit: just take the existing boss out of the filter / broken piece of casing and take it to the machinist and say "make me a copy of this, only 25mm longer, etc"

You in Manchester? I could pop round to take a look if you like.

[Sid Squid]

Lazymanc

Take Embee's advice, take the original filter mount to an engineering shop and get them to make you anther one the same only with an extra, say, 10mm on the rear end, tap the case a bit deeper and reassemble as normal.

This is the only approach I would consider to be at all realistic and have any chance of being a permanent repair.

[embee]

Just done some very approximate sums and I reckon 4 full threads in the alum casing will give you more than enough safety margin (simple sums say at least 500kg strength of the alum thread material in shear, and that's assuming pretty low values of material properties, probably more like 1000kg). If you can get 5 or 6 threads then you're laughing.

Just remember you'll only get one go at threading it, so if you're not confident then get someone who is. A bike shop probably won't touch it (liability etc, I wouldn't bother approaching them), you need a competent machinist/mechanic/technician/engineer type. Remember to plug the oil-ways, strips of rag will do fine providing they don't have loose strands.

If you get to that stage, degrease the threads with something like brake cleaner, allow to dry, apply some loctite (grade not particularly important in this case), and just nip it in gently. Trying to tighten it more won't achieve anything useful and will simply stress the threads more.

Remove the plugs from the oil-ways!!

Leave several hours before fitting the filter, preferably overnight or similar, for the loctite to cure properly.

[lazymanc]

Right, after much thought and consideration, I'm going to swap the engine.

I do appreciate all your comments here, and even though I know you're right about it being repairable, I don't trust myself to do it and none of the garages I've spoken to will touch it with a barge pole.

I can still look at repairing it once it's out of the bike before I sell it on, but I just want to be back on the road at this point and the quickest route to that seems to be a full engine swap.

So, now I need a bit of advice on what to buy. There are 3 on ebay presently:

2003 N model, 14k miles £360 inc P&P - no covers, generator, starter clutch
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-SV650-SV650N-K3-2004-Engine-Unit-13-695-Miles_W0QQitemZ270374129948QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_M otorcycle_Parts?hash=item270374129948&_trksid=p328 6.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1 |240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

2003 7k miles £575 inc P&P
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-SV650S-SV650-SV-650-S-03-Engine-Assembly_W0QQitemZ150292548404QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU K_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item150292548404&_trksid=p 3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39% 3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

2004 2850 miles, £647 inc P&P, no alternator, starter motor
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2004-Suzuki-SV650-engine_W0QQitemZ280222538025QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item280222538025&_trksid=p32 86.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A 1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

The bike itself has done around 14k so I'm not really too bothered about the mileage of the first one. I can take the covers off my existing engine, but I'm guessing i'll need a gasket set @ £xyz if I go down that route?

If anyone knows of a breaker where I might get a cheaper deal, or has a spare pointy engine for sale, feel free to suggest.

Also, how difficult is swapping an engine out? Considering my existing spannering record would I be better paying a garage to do it? I have had offers of help already from friendly forum peeps.

[lazymanc]

Also, if I break the existing engine for parts, what kind of return am I looking at?

[yorkie_chris]

Engine swap isn't too bad to do. Worst bit is getting the exhaust off!

£350 is about the most that would be sensible for an SV engine. £575 is just lunacy. And £647 incomplete? Is the daftc##t on drugs?

Covers will swap, you'll probably get away without a gasket kit.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by lazymanc

Also, if I break the existing engine for parts, what kind of return am I looking at?

Probably £100 for the crank and rods
£80 for the gearbox (might struggle to sell this though, they don't normally break)
£40 for the alternator stator
£20 for the flywheel/alternator rotor
£40 each head
£30 ish for the clutch pack (but I'd keep it as a spare)

All rough guesses.