Throttle body balancing

Originally Posted by Baph

If you go by the service schedule, you wont go wrong. Can't remember what the service schedule is for throttle bodies though, as every time I have the tank up I balance them - might as well since I have the carbtune & it only takes a couple of mins.

service says every 7.5k service. I got my next 2 services paid for so but my friend is considering buying an SV and would like to have a go at it. I might buy the carbtune and test it on my bike.

BTW bike chunk of advice, unless your are hopeless with a set of tools do not buy a dealership service package. I find the brakes on my SV need looking at every 1k miles.

for £500 you get 2 glorified oil changes, Oil Change and a throttle body check and a Valve Clearnaces, oil change and throttle body check. O and 2 sets of spark plugs.

Considering most people on here can do all the above bar the valve clearances which cost about 1.5 hours labour then whats the point. Bad move on my part.

Can anyone recommend a type of pliers for removing and refitting those bloody nipple covers? I was all set on the weekend to do it, I'd done all the donkey work faffing about with the radiator and checking the valve clearances, plug and oil changes, cable lubing blah blah, and was looking forward to doing something that will actually improve the way the bike rides (I'm fairly confident they're off quite a bit), I was going to do the TPS too.

Had the airbox completely off but it's not any easier really, those crankcase breather hoses are a swine to refit too aren't they?

Anyway, I was thinking some bent nose type pliers? But I don't know, had a look round B&Q and halfords earlier but nothing leapt out. Some had long noses, but then dead chunky grips and I'm not sure they'd fit far enough into the frame.

[RingDing]

I can't help I'm afraid. I've tried to get them off a couple of times but with no luck. I'm tempted to wait until I have two spares as I can see me dropping at least one and it disappearing into a crevice somewhere (on the bike not me).

[Bibio]

surgeons/fisherman's forsepts..

grab.. pull.. click.. ..... rubber nipple is held in the jaws...

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by ThEGr33k

I do it by ear. Adjust air screws till it sounds like its running smooth at tick over first, basically it doesnt seem to rise and fall in sound... Sounds constant.

Once you have the base level then start blipping the throttle. Basically what you are listening for is the engine picking up revs without coughting (bogging down) and returning to tick over without taking ages or coughing and spluttering and struggling to find tick over again.

Once the blipping of the throttle seems right then test ride it. Acceleration and decelleration should feel snappy and instant.

*NOTE* When adjusting the air bleed screws (on the throttle bodies) make sure you dont screw them too far out No more than 1.75 screw turns generally, get it as far in as possible while still running right. Start at about 1 turn out on each. If you do screw them out too far then youll lose bottom end and pulling off will be bad. You'll know. I did this through trial and error and the engine just died when you let the clutch out.

Hope this helps... I know it works because on my service a couple of weeks ago the fella said the Trottle ballance was perfect. Oh yes baby. Cant ask for better aye?

There's no air bleed on the SV's, not even a seperate idle air valve afaik, just something to open the butterflys a little more.

Better to use vacuum gauges, get the valves about right, then set the idle mixture by the highest vacuum method (great way to burn your fingers on the curvy.)

On the pointy, just burn your fingers getting the covers off, put the gauges on. Balance it up, all you need off it the tank.

Cheers for the tips, I elected to go with the forceps because I don't have hands anywhere near tiny enough to remove the caps with my fingers, plus I don't enjoy cooking myself much.
I bought these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=220390605013 and they worked a treat. Still awkward though. I'm under the impression that it's something which has never been done before to my bike due to the position of the circlips despite there being a 7k service stamp in the book when I bought it. They were way off as suspected, the bike idles much more sweetly and vibes less at speed too.

The actual balancing process is a piece of cake. Glad I decided to do this service myself. Even with buying a few extra tools and the gauges I've saved myself a packet and I know everything has been done.

[yorkie_chris]

Forgot to mention this before you did it, but get some bits of rubber tube and extend them somewhere you can get to them. Far easier than burning your fingers next time.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Forgot to mention this before you did it, but get some bits of rubber tube and extend them somewhere you can get to them. Far easier than burning your fingers next time.

+1 to this.

Rubber tube to extend the nipples, then a screw in the end of the tube to seal it properly.

When you need to balance them, especially if you have a CarbTune set, unscrew the screws, and plug the CarbTune in-line restrictors on to the rubber pipe. Heypresto, connected.

Originally Posted by Baph

+1 to this.

Rubber tube to extend the nipples, then a screw in the end of the tube to seal it properly.

When you need to balance them, especially if you have a CarbTune set, unscrew the screws, and plug the CarbTune in-line restrictors on to the rubber pipe. Heypresto, connected.

So you remove the restrictors/dampers but leave the short piece of black pipe in place?
I have the CarbTune set. I need more info though. How does a screw seal it properly - it's just a piece of rubber hose? And finally, do you put a circlip on the tube at the throttle body end? And extra finally, do you secure them to anything or just leave them hanging/flapping?

[yorkie_chris]

A screw seals it fine if it is a snug fit. Seepage of air down the side won't affect mixture.

It's not a circlip But no, a spring clip could be useful for safety but generally no ill effects are seen if you don't.

Nick one of the reusable cable ties from somewhere else on the bike to keep them somewhere out of the way but accessible.