TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

is this mainly a problem with the carbed bikes as my 07 seems ok and i'm not going to start messing with it for the sake of it.

[Sid Squid]

Specifically this thread refers to the TPS adjustment of the FI bikes only, your K7 included.
But, as has been mentioned before, they're set right from the factory but some people have found the initial, relatively higher, rate of wear on the operating mechanism causes the adjustment to change early in the life on some bikes.

Cabed bikes also have a TPS and this should be set in a similar way - obviously there's no digital readout on those so an electrical meter will be needed.

[Bibio]

yes your picture is correct... top TSP is actually the STPS.. and the bottom one is TPS..

so as to your picture its the bottom TPS you want to adjust...

Thanks Bibio. It all makes sense now.

I didn't realise this thread existed until yesterday.

I picked up my K6 new in July 2007. Right from the start I noticed it was snatchy at low revs but I put it down to the fact that it needed running in, and I'd been off bikes for a few years and maybe lost a bit of throttle hand sensitivity.

But as time passed it got no better and I concluded that the SV is a budget bike with budget fueling that's basically crap.

However, this morning I followed these instructions and made the adjustment. Firstly I found that my little line didn't move until 4500 rpm (I did open the throttle very very slowly - it was definitley at 4500).

I had no problem with the Torx bolts - used a standard tool with a 1/4 open ended spanner. The tool doesn't go very deep into the head so make sure you keep pressure against it while turning it.

Now, bearing in mind that mine was set at 4.5k, the amount that I had to move the TPS was no more than 0.5mm (relative to the original white line painted on it) to drop it to 1500 rpm. I found that tightening the Torx bolts raised it slightly and now mine moves at 1700 rpm, so not ideal but a whole lot better.

So, the test run; As has already been said, it transforms the bike. Straight away it felt smoother, ticked over nicer, and smooth gearchanges are much easier. I don't get that sudden snatchy fuel shut off as I roll the throttle off aproaching junctions any more, and it's vastly smoother when opening the throttle from nothing. Small roundabouts are not a pain anymore!

Many thanks for the guidance.

[TSM]

blab blab blab....

Scrap what i said, im looking at it all wrong.. let me start again.

1) ive changed the thread title as its not a mod, its an adjustement.

2) The top TPS looks like its for the Secondary Throtle Valve (Top) (SDTV - Suzuki Dual Throtle Valve) which is Actuated by the ECU... and Primary Throtle Valve (bottom) TPS is actuated by the user throttle input. To know more.... http://media.suzuki.com/svlaunch/fuel.htm

hi, i,m taking a pillion for the 1st time to the thundersprint in northwich tomoz, and was a bit worried about jerky throttle response making things uncomfortable for her. then i saw your thread this morning and did the mod, took about 30 minutes with no problems. GOD!!!! what a difference! feels so smooth now, it's like riding a new bike. the line was moving to the top at 4000 rpm! top class post mate. your a star.

cheers, kev.

I done this tonight. Was set at 3500rpm.

So adjusted it to about 1600rpm.. but when I tightened it up I must have moved it a fraction and its set at 2000rpm. hayho..

Even still, what a massive difference!

Thankyou so much, my bike has been in my suzuki garage now for 4 days because riding in 1st and 2nd gear was bloody terrifying through slow moving traffic. Can this also cause the engine to cut out occasionally? Im heading down to my garage soon to see how they are getting on. They have taken it apart twice now and rebuilt it without finding a problem, but have rode it and the problem is still there? can all this be rectified by making this adjustment and am i looking at a hefty bill to be fixed?
Cheers
Matt

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Cabed bikes also have a TPS and this should be set in a similar way - obviously there's no digital readout on those so an electrical meter will be needed.

But the difference on the carbed bikes is relatively small in comparison. A few degrees of ignition advance won't make much odds.