TPS/STV/FI...adjusting issues, possible HOWTO in the future

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by Riotstarterr

Last thing, nobody yet commented on the out of whack secondary throttle valves (the plates itselves) and the fact it does open fully and that every plate is in different position (ie one plate is horizontal, where as the second is half open). Can you shed some light on this, if you know anything about it?

i can only take a few guesses at this on. first one would be that instead of adjusting the correct screw when doing a TB balance the STP link rod screw has been adjusted instead. another is that the STP sensor is jammed. another is that the STVA is jammed.

are both (top) plates full closed when cold?
do the (top) plates go through the correct fully open/close sequence when the ignition is turned on?

NOTE: the buzz buzz you hear when turning the ignition on is not your fuel pump priming as a lot of people think but instead its the STP valve plates doing a dance, you cant hear the fuel pump priming unless you stick your ear on the tank.

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by Riotstarterr

Ok, I will think about replacing it.

Anyway, I'm gonna remove the STV plates completely, without removing anything else. Then I will install Gipro ATRE on monday and I'll see how it goes.

my advice is DONT. you will see no gain, its a placebo effect. plus its also part of the cold running circuit.

They are closed, but not 100% (one si more closed than the other). I actually know about the whiney noise when ignition is on, as I noticed that the last time I was checking the STV and Fast Idle.

Do you have any objection against the STV removal?

Alright. I'm just reading through this (link below) and basically everyone that has done it says it's a great mod with basically no negatives, not to mention they say Fast Idle works normally even with STV removed.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthr...261977&page=15

[Bibio]

ask yourself. why did suzuki put them in if they never needed to?

as i said its a placebo effect but your welcome do do what you like as its your bike.

Well, I'm thinking like this: my STVs are misadjusted and there's chance that some other stuff is out of sync too (STP,...). If I remove that, I will remove the troublemakers from the equation, therefore it cannot hurt anything.
You could say I should just get it right, synced (STV, STP) and/or exchanged (STVA, temp sensor) but that takes time, a lot of money (in case of exchanging stuff) and someone to do it (I didn't find such a person and don't really want to do it myself with having not enough information, as stated originally in this thread).
And removing these plates should help in my case, at least that's what I'm thinking.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong as I'm here to listen to opinions and more experienced people.

[Bibio]

if there is a problem there is a problem and resorting to a bodge will not rectify the problem. doing supposed performance mods only works if the bike is running correctly in the first place.

in most cases its just doing the correct sequence of adjustments and understanding what NEEDS done and how to do it. blindlessly trying things can make matters worse. identify, diagnose and rectify.

lets get real here, the SV only pushes out around 70bhp at most so the best you hope to gain in reality is up to 10bhp with the 10bhp costing MEGA cash to gain.

no matter what shiny glossy mags tell you or people selling their wares on forums they are all trying to make money with fancy marketing and bull speeches.

yes i sometimes sell wares on this forum but i would like to think that mine do actually make a difference and none of them are performance related. i can make TRE mods with my eyes closed but i refuse to do so as its bull. let me put it this way, i placed a thread over on SVrider about selling my swingarm marker plates and got almost no response (i think it was two).. why, well simple, it was not a performance item/mod and i never tried to mystify people will bull. over here though i have sold hundred's of them with absolutely no complaints, in fact nothing but praise.

I don't think we are on the same boat;
The last thing I'm looking for is any hp increase. I'm in for smoothing things out, for better behaviour of the bike, not performance. That's what this was all about since the beginning.

[Bibio]

then you are on the right track but you need to rectify your problem and not resort to bodging something like others have done as they dont understand how to fix the problem either.

the section on adjusting the TB's in the workshop manual is there for stripping down and assembly procedure. you must identify the problem first, then move onto diagnosing the problem to find the troublesome component, then you replace or adjust the component to rectify the problem.

apart from basic maintenance like TB's sync or TPS adjustment you should not need to touch any other part of the TB's unless you have identified a component as being defective or needing adjusted.

Well, I've removed the plates just now and adjusted Fast Idle once more. FI is working now (so far), so we will see.
Motorcycle seems to be running OK, but I didn't have the chance to run it properly, just around the garage and into the parking spot. But I've noticed less engine braking and smoother operation even now, tomorrow will be a test ride, that will tell more.

I've managed to strip two of the four screws, they are so muddy and stripped right away, so I had to drill them. The leftover screw body without the head stayed glued in the bar and I didn't manage to get it out, it's so sticky, so I hope it won't get loose and drop into the engine. I should remove the whole throttle body soon and drill it properly so there's only hole left.