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Old 21-06-17, 12:03 PM   #21
Bibio
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

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Originally Posted by synXero View Post



that lifter mech is faaaaarrrrrr too dry, get some moly grease in there (just pack it in with your finger) even chain lube will do. if you dont the mech will last maybe a month. the shield with the tab sticking out in the middle of the mech has ball bearings in there and the worm gear is made of cheesium. a dry mech will also cause notching/sticking. if your mech give out you will have no clutch just like a broken cable.
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Old 21-06-17, 05:35 PM   #22
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

I wish my mech were as dirty as that one. I can't see mine for oil!!!

At 30,000 miles I'd guess the clutch cable is fine but more likely the clutch lifter is worn, especially if it's that dry.
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Old 21-06-17, 06:23 PM   #23
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

On the subject of clutches, on the AL7 they have replaced the ball screw thingy mechanism and clutch is either cam or rack + pinion operated ? The operating lever is horizontal (see attached photo). Only time will tell if this is an improvement, but it does mean the operating stuff is well protected.
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Old 21-06-17, 06:50 PM   #24
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

Bibio - no grease here sadly but I doused it in chain lube. I figured it could do no harm. I am hoping this extends the remainder of its probably miserable life, lolz. Gear shift functionality is A1 now though so I'm happy for the mean time. Shift is light and smooth. Beforehand it was stubborn. Perhaps lubing that mech up has contributed more than I had considered. I shall definitely look out for any returning stubbornness though.

I also thought the spring felt/looked fairly deteriorated. Wonder if it would be worth just replacing the entire suite...
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Old 21-06-17, 06:56 PM   #25
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

return spring looks fine. if the clutch is working ok then leave alone. the mechs are fairly cheep, think they are about £45 so no harm in replacing for peace of mind. what ever you do DONT take an old mech apart, they are a nigglymare to get back together as the metal cage holds the ball bearings and when they get old they go loose in the cage then when you take it apart they fall out all over the place.
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Old 21-06-17, 09:05 PM   #26
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

Hahaha, noted. I can well imagine.
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Old 22-06-17, 12:11 AM   #27
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

grease is just as important as tools when motorcycles are concerned. get a 500g tub of basic white bearing grease (dont buy moly e.g. cv grease), they cost about £5. it should last you a minimum of 10 years. if you feel flush and fancy a nice tool then get one of those pushbike mini grease guns and fill it from the tub, this stops you putting dirty fingers into the grease.
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Old 22-06-17, 10:27 AM   #28
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

I am struggling to keep quiet about Bibio's last post there - I did strip my lifter fully, it isn't hard. Thoroughly clean it with solvent so you can assess the wear then coat it all with MOLY GREASE so that the surfaces are better protected when the balls skid. Assembly is then easy because the balls don't drop out as the grease holds them n place during assembly.

If you saw the pix I posted, it showed little wear so I refitted it and it is still going strong and is super silky even with shorty levers.

Clutch lifting mech.-4 by Andrew Hayes, on Flickr

Last edited by Blapper; 22-06-17 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 22-06-17, 11:00 AM   #29
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

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...this stops you putting dirty fingers into the grease.
but that's the fun bit
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Old 22-06-17, 02:47 PM   #30
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

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MOLY GREASE so that the surfaces are better protected when the balls skid. Assembly is then easy because the balls don't drop out as the grease holds them n place during assembly.

If you saw the pix I posted, it showed little wear so I refitted it and it is still going strong and is super silky even with short levers
MOLY is the best extreme pressure lubricant ever except maybe tungsten disulphide - IMHO both are ideal for this application.
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