Super heavy clutch pull (Snapped clutch cable)

[Seeker]

Originally Posted by Barney626

It also has aftermarket levers

Is the fulcrum distance the same as for the stock levers?

Here's an article for older Brit bikes but the principles are the same:

https://www.classicbritishspares.com...ulcrum-spacing

[Barney626]

Originally Posted by Seeker

Is the fulcrum distance the same as for the stock levers?

Here's an article for older Brit bikes but the principles are the same:

https://www.classicbritishspares.com...ulcrum-spacing

Hi, don't have original levers to compare with, if someone could give me a measurement of stock levers I could compare them.

Having got the lift arm to roughly the right height the clutch is a lot lighter than it was so fairly sure it was partly down to the adjustment going out of line.

I've got one of those 'clutch cable repair kits' where it gives you nipples you can attached to the end of the inner cable so I'm probably just going to cut the current nipple off and attach the new one in the right place rather than spend 4x the price on an official OEM one again....

[Adam Ef]

Those kits tend to be temporary fixes. The nipple you fix on moves gradually under strain.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Barney626

Hi, don't have original levers to compare with, if someone could give me a measurement of stock levers I could compare them.

Having got the lift arm to roughly the right height the clutch is a lot lighter than it was so fairly sure it was partly down to the adjustment going out of line.

I've got one of those 'clutch cable repair kits' where it gives you nipples you can attached to the end of the inner cable so I'm probably just going to cut the current nipple off and attach the new one in the right place rather than spend 4x the price on an official OEM one again....

Adam is right. I had to use one of those temp ones when I snapped a Clutch cable whilst out on a Group ride. Had to call breakdown and the guy fitted one but warned me to replace it ASAP as he said they will fail in regular use.

This thread is interesting,

https://www.svrider.com/threads/clut...length.233841/

It's a shame this AD does not show a length as that seems to be the issue,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Suzu...IAAOSwqgFd5VDq

but it has the same Rad pipe as mine and is cheap enough.

[Barney626]

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

Adam is right. I had to use one of those temp ones when I snapped a Clutch cable whilst out on a Group ride. Had to call breakdown and the guy fitted one but warned me to replace it ASAP as he said they will fail in regular use.

This thread is interesting,

https://www.svrider.com/threads/clut...length.233841/

It's a shame this AD does not show a length as that seems to be the issue,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Suzu...IAAOSwqgFd5VDq

but it has the same Rad pipe as mine and is cheap enough.

To be specific, I've got an SK5 (2nd Gen) half faired. I fitted the nipple yesterday and got it to fit fine. The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

[Seeker]

Originally Posted by Barney626

The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

If you put that part number into Fowlers search and use the "Linked Bikes" it says it is for the "handlebar without cowling"
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/58200-17G00

The part number you need for an "S" model is 58200-17G10
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/58200-17G10

I couldn't find a UK parts picture for the K5 (2005?) model year so here's a a link to the US Partzilla site: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/su...r-with-cowling

One side note - the £45 cable in the UK only costs $22 (£17) in the US

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Barney626

To be specific, I've got an SK5 (2nd Gen) half faired. I fitted the nipple yesterday and got it to fit fine. The cable I ordered claimed to have a part number 58200-17G00.

I would get a 2nd opinion from a trusted small local Motorcycle shop as you say the Bars have been modified. They might be able to give you some info. My old M/C MOT mech used to make custom Choppers and knew his stuff on modifications/cable routing etc.

HTH

[Bibio]

do you have aftermarket CNC levers by chance?

if so check that the bolt hole in the lever is the same size as the bolt. sometimes the levers have a brass bush that falls out and causes lots of play and causes it to bite into the cable making it snap after about a year or two. check the slot that the cable moves in where the nipple is for signs of wear as an indicator of it binding.

the clutch part number you have put up is for the SV650N not the S, they are not interchangeable due to the length.

those vids you posted show that your worm drive is fubar.. you need a new one. the lever on the worm drive should not move like that. i have had better condition ones that the one you have that i have had to replace.

i take it you cleaned the wormdrive of grease before you posted the vids to show the movement and wear?

i use slinky cables and they are great.

[Barney626]

Originally Posted by Bibio

do you have aftermarket CNC levers by chance?

if so check that the bolt hole in the lever is the same size as the bolt. sometimes the levers have a brass bush that falls out and causes lots of play and causes it to bite into the cable making it snap after about a year or two. check the slot that the cable moves in where the nipple is for signs of wear as an indicator of it binding.

the clutch part number you have put up is for the SV650N not the S, they are not interchangeable due to the length.

those vids you posted show that your worm drive is fubar.. you need a new one. the lever on the worm drive should not move like that. i have had better condition ones that the one you have that i have had to replace.

i take it you cleaned the wormdrive of grease before you posted the vids to show the movement and wear?

i use slinky cables and they are great.

Holes in the levers are a good fit so no play.

I'll try to source a new worm drive. I cleaned/greased it after the video before I put it all back in, it does feel a lot better now but the bike does have 50k miles on it so not surprised the worm drive is finished.

[shiftin_gear98]

The clutch on my old SV was always really heavy, hand cramp inducing.
I changed the cable for an S specific version, ok it was a Venhill cable (I think) but I too found the internal cable to be way too long, I even had to get creative with the barrel off of the old cable as there wasn't enough adjustment in the lever and worm drive to compensate. (I cut a slot in the old barrel so the new cable could go through it and use it as a spacer). It worked like this for a year or so. Until I had to look at another cable due to cable stretch and had run out of adjustment again. So I bought a genuine Suzuki cable correct for my bike.
And it was exactly the same - it was still too long!! WTF. So I bodged it again.

I also bought a brand new Genuine Lever, none of the above helped with the heavy lever action.

(My GSXR although older than the SV by 4 years is way lighter)

Good Luck sorting yours.