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15-04-06, 11:59 PM | #1 |
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Bike Starting Issues related to Gear Shift
Hey folks,
Here's a weird one... My K3 is having a few 'issues' with itself right now.. and i just can't trouble shoot my way out... any help would be great! Problem: On turning the ignition on you normally hear the throttle body etc priming (approx for 3sec for example). However my bike starting priming but cuts out in the middle of priming after approx 1sec). The neutral light IS ON (and you can freely push the bike), however the F1 and Red warning light comes on. The start motor still turns over fine, however there is no fuel to ignite. What i have worked out so far is that the issue is related to the Gear Shifter... and after 4/5mins of knocking it from first through to second and back again, it eventually does the full 3secs of priming... and fires up a treat. After a 30min run, i make sure i put in neutral with the engine still running and turn off via the key. Then i turned the ignition back on again... and got same problem as before... Is there a sensor issue somewhere here... as i'm lossing my hair over this one.. |
16-04-06, 12:04 AM | #2 |
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mmm
stumped! got lost after......the start! lol |
17-04-06, 12:10 AM | #3 |
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..you got lost reading it... try writing it
Working out if i kick the shift down enough times , it starts working... |
17-04-06, 01:15 AM | #4 | |
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Re: Bike Starting Issues related to Gear Shift
Quote:
I'm not aware of any connection between the fuel pump priming and gear selection? (but haven't worked on a pointy fuel system so can't be sure) Given the clutch cut off and sidestand safety I wouldn't have thought another "safety feature" was needed? if so I can't see their being two feeds (as in one for the neutral light and another for gear indication). I'd suggest first checking the electrical feed to the fuel pump relay and relay & pump itself, as all that jumping around on the gear selector could move a bad connection enough for it to prime properly? or checking both the start circuits cut outs ( clutch & sidestand). a quick test is to run a direct 12v feed to the pump relay without the igniton on and you should hear it prime, (if you don't then try one direct to the pump itself) this should show that the relay and pump are both working or a fault with either. use a meter to check the cable runs between the relay and ignition switch, also worth checking any electrical connectins in the circuit as well. So in summery you could be looking at, 1. fuel pump problem 2. wiring problem (between relay and pump) 3. wiring problem (between ignition switch and relay) 4. fuel pump relay problem 5. corroded or otherwise bad electrical connection in the circuit. Cheers Mark.
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