No main or dipped beam.

[Rano]

To be fair, the actual plug pins and receptacles were ok, no signs of electrolytic corrosion. But bad crimps on the 8 way plugs. I need to find some after market higher quality plug-sockets and re wire both plugs. Another job on the list��

[Rano]

Cheers dude.
I head a go cleaning the sockets with electro-clean and a TeePee tooth flossing stick (fits in perfect) Also a pure(ish) silicone grease ( like the stuff divers use) is not bad for squeezing into the rear of the plugs ( where the wires go in) as a water barrier. Done that a few times, also used it smeared over joints before heat shrinking. I'll look into it further once I've found some good quality water proof connectors, cut back the loom and re terminate both plugs properly.

Originally Posted by Rano

Cheers dude.

I head a go cleaning the sockets with electro-clean and a TeePee tooth flossing stick (fits in perfect) Also a pure(ish) silicone grease ( like the stuff divers use) is not bad for squeezing into the rear of the plugs ( where the wires go in) as a water barrier. Done that a few times, also used it smeared over joints before heat shrinking. I'll look into it further once I've found some good quality water proof connectors, cut back the loom and re terminate both plugs properly.

I think you are right Rano, the quality of the ordinary crimped connections is not very good, I think because the SV range is built down to a cost. I’ve lost track of the number of joints I’ve soldered and heat shrunk on properly as I work my way through the K6 I bought a few months ago. The block connectors themselves seem to be okay.
Alan


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[Adam Ef]

I pulled the block connectors under the tank apart when I was doing the bar conversion and that tell tale white dust came out of all of them. A sign that the whole bike needed going over.


That one in the nose cone was the worst though. It sits exactly where the bottom of the screen joins the fairing, so the screen essentially funnels water down into it. Mine is now moved slightly and solidly taped up, with a length of bike inner tube cable tied over it too.

[Rano]

Originally Posted by Adam Ef

I pulled the block connectors under the tank apart when I was doing the bar conversion and that tell tale white dust came out of all of them. A sign that the whole bike needed going over.


That one in the nose cone was the worst though. It sits exactly where the bottom of the screen joins the fairing, so the screen essentially funnels water down into it. Mine is now moved slightly and solidly taped up, with a length of bike inner tube cable tied over it too.

Smashing idea. Cheaper and greener then rubber loom tape.

[SV650rules]

https://www.diy.com/departments/core.../173415_BQ.prd

Try self amalgamating tape, also available in 25mm width and much beloved by sparkies and satellite dish engineers for waterproofing cable joints and plugs.

[Rano]

Cheers Buddy���� That's the stuff.

Originally Posted by Rano

Cheers Buddy���� That's the stuff.

Ah yes, I forgot to mention self-amalgamating tape (I do a little bit of sparky work - not really a business any more), I always seal up any connector boxes I take apart with it, and use it to re-seal any bit of loom I have to undo. It works really well.