What have you tinkered with today?

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

Didn't want to start a new thread but seems the 'tinkering' thread may be OK.

Has anyone ever used these ? Seem like a neat idea to fix things like a new R/R or bypass a dodgy plug. Solder that melts before the heatshrink does is a new one on me..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eventronic-...CKSN0FGYAWN2QY

New to me and interesting

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Sir Trev

Similar issue to Admin but in my case it's the scarifier. Dug it out of the shed and got ready for the slog of emptying the damn thing every ten seconds and filling/lugging 30-odd rubble sacks to the shed before a run to the dump next weekend and... it won't spin over. Off to the garage and strip it down.

Had similar experience when I dug the scarifier out of the depths of the garage and re-homed some large spiders in the process. Would not spin over, but seemed to work sometimes if I jiggled the safety switch, so being as the switch was the easiest to get to I took a look inside ( held together with those security torx screws with a peg up the middle of the torx socket ) - sprayed in some contact cleaner but still could not get motor moving. Decided it may be the motor ( one of those universal AC/DC things with carbon brushes ), one look at the blackness of the commutator told me it may be arcing so I tackled the brushes - one was stuck in its holder, freed it up and polished the commutator with fine emery and - vroom vroom - dug bin loads of dead grass and moss out of the lawn - wouldn't think there could possibly be so much stuff hiding in the lawn.

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

New to me and interesting

That looks pretty cool, I’m not sure how strong the joints would be, but for bike electrics that would not matter most of the time. I’ll get some next time I place an order with Amazon.


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[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Othen

That looks pretty cool, I’m not sure how strong the joints would be, but for bike electrics that would not matter most of the time. I’ll get some next time I place an order with Amazon.

One of the reviewers said his dad used to use them when he worked at BAE, I reckon if they use them they must be OK.

[DarrenSV650S]

Solder isn't the best idea on bikes because of the vibrations or heat. Crimps are quicker, easier and stronger

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

Solder isn't the best idea on bikes because of the vibrations or heat. Crimps are quicker, easier and stronger

Well, I certainly don’t agree with that: if it is a job that will never need to come apart again and never fail, I solder it and seal it with heat shrink. I also use crimps (lots of them) in the right place (like removable connectors for lights and so on).
We will just have to disagree on that one (but I’m right )
Having thought about it, I don’t think this product is worth trying. As above: if a joint is immutable then it is worth soldering (it doesn’t take long with a 75w iron), if it is for a removable connection then crimping is better - so this product doesn’t have a place.
Alan


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[maviczap]

New HT lead and plug cap, but still have an SV325.

Drained the fuel out of the tank and front float bowl. Gonna get some fresh fuel in it, see if that helps

[SV650rules]

There are plenty of bad crimps around done with wrong tool and maybe right tool with wrong dies which can damage cable strands, or wrong size lug, and a crimp not done properly and sealed is open to corrosion. Main problem with soldering is when too much heat used and solder is allowed to wick up into multi strand cables ( which takes away flexibility ) and no strain and bending relief is supplied, the heat shrink tubing will both seal and provide strain relief to the joint - I tend to tin the strands and then twist them together and use minimum amount of heat and solder to complete the joint and heat shrink the joint and have had good success with reliability.

Originally Posted by SV650rules

There are plenty of bad crimps around done with wrong tool and maybe right tool with wrong dies which can damage cable strands, or wrong size lug, and a crimp not done properly and sealed is open to corrosion. Main problem with soldering is when too much heat used and solder is allowed to wick up into multi strand cables ( which takes away flexibility ) and no strain and bending relief is supplied, the heat shrink tubing will both seal and provide strain relief to the joint - I tend to tin the strands and then twist them together and use minimum amount of heat and solder to complete the joint and heat shrink the joint and have had good success with reliability.

We agree about that: tinning the ends, twisting them, soldering and sliding some heat shrink over is the best method. I can’t recall a soldered joint I’ve made on a car or bike ever failing - the downside is that if they ever have to come apart they are hard work (or the wire gets shorter).
Doing crimps properly is a good idea as well (use a proper crimper tool and it will make a pretty good joint).


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[SV650rules]

Lets face it a lot of crimps are done with wrong size lugs and a pair of pliers or side cutters because correct tools not available, decent crimp tools are pricey bits of kit.