Cost of tappet check?

Hello all,
My bike is now due it's 14,500 tappet check, for just the check alone what should i expect to pay? i've found a place in Plymouth that will charge £90 if nothing needs replacing and worse case £150 if they all need doing, how does this compare? also what dictates wether or not they need changing, i do all the other serving myself but this is beyond me. opinions please.

[Biker Biggles]

If you do the other stuff yourself you can check them yourself.If you can change the plugs you just need to undo the three bolts that hold the cam covers on and remove them.Then all you need is a feeler guage set and something to turn the engine as you measure the gaps.As long as everything is within tolerance thats it.

if it needs shims changing £150 is what my local place would charge, luckily its just been taking over by a guy i know so i'm getting a few other bits sorted for free while its there.

I got charged £90 for the 15k check, and then £70 for the 30k check from the dealer I bought my bike from

[_Stretchie_]

Here you go, I don't know if you have a naked or faired but you will need to get to the rocker (valve) covers so you will need to move the tank (I don't know if you can do it by propping the tank up or if you have to remove it completely) and you may need to move the radiator out of the way.

You will need to remove the generator cover plug and the timing inspection plug.
So, lets say you have the valve cover off the front cylinder, rotate the engine so that -F shows in the inspection plug.

Look at the cams on the front cylinder and they should be pretty much facing away from each other (the top ones pointing up, the bottom ones pointing down), if not then rotate the engine 360 degrees until -F comes up again, they should now be facing away from each other.

Then check you clearances and see if you can get the feeler guage in under the cam



It should fit between the cam and the follower underneath it but you should feel a bit of drag as you are doing it.

If not then find the thickness that does and check it against the chart in the haynes for the correct shim thickness and write down.

When you have done them all, you need to rotate the engine 3/4 of a turn to get to -R then you can check the rear in the same way.

Hope this helps

Thanks for replies, the price i'll be paying seems about right, I'm not scared to get my hands dirty and give things ago, but when it'll be rotating at 9000 revs and doing 70 mph ish I like to leave to the trained person.