Front fork oil change

Anyone got experience of upside down forks??


I'm a bit of a 'cuckoo in the nest' in as much as I don't own an Sv but an SV 650 engined, Cagiva Raptor fitted with 43mm Brembo upside down forks. I've changed oil on conventional forks many time and it's a breeze - upside downers are a little different - so any guidance, tips, hints ,advice is welcomed.

What make of forks Most have a drain in the bottom of then


Sorry didn't read your post properly -----check to see if they have a drain on the bottom

[jambo]

The USD fork's I've seen haven't had a drain on the bottom of them, a Haynes manual or workshop manual is your friend?

http://www.cagiva.it/

I usually get someone else to do forks for me, especially USD forks... So I won't bull**** you with my own ideas. Very little on the net about Cagiva, I looked.

[Sid Squid]

It's effectively the same job as RWU forks, the complication is where you have adjusters as these must be reinstalled as they were when removed, (well...assuming they were right then of course ), this usually means measuring the damper rod and refitting the preload adjuster in a given spot, sometimes it's necessary to set the damping adjuster too.

As Jambos says, a manual will help you with this, and give you specific data as to what needs to fit exactly where.

[21QUEST]

They are not particularly difficult to do but you need the right tools. The first time might seem tricky. I just actually just changed the oil on my GSXR forks. Having done it a few times now , I can do it with my eyes shut and one hand behind my back

With regards to tools I made mine but later later found out Traxxion Dynamics do an inexpensive kit. Basically need to compress the springs via the spacers , fit a plate between the damper rod lock nut and the spacer , and then undo the top cap. On the GSXR there is a oil pipe that goes into the damper ro so you want to take that out before tipping the forks upside down to drain the oil.

Once that is done forks compressed pour the oil slowly slightly tilted(helps get rid of air in the cartridge ).Fill right to the top. Then you have to bleed the the cartridge(very important). Don't rush the bleed as you'll only end up doing it again.

Time to set the air gap. You would atleast need a syringe(biggest you can get) with a plastic pipe attach to it and also a steel rule to check height. Again I made mine using a syringe , tube and a small bore aliminium rod with a rubber stopper(snud fit) on the Ally rod. I just have to set the height on the rod using the rubber stopper and suck away. No need to keep on checking with the steel rule.

That's about all really. Those should be easier as I don't think you have rebound/compression adjuster on those .

On forks with rebound adjuster you also have to be carefull to set the adjuster height.Some forks are set using external measurements and some internal. Care has to be taken also screwing the top back if has rebound adjustment. You have to screw it slowly and stop when rebound adjuster bottoms on the damper rod or you'll damage the needle.

Cheers
Ben

PS: I can email you a copy of the section of the SUzuki manual that covers changing the fork oil on the GSXR forks.

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

It's effectively the same job as RWU forks, the complication is where you have adjusters as these must be reinstalled as they were when removed, (well...assuming they were right then of course ), this usually means measuring the damper rod and refitting the preload adjuster in a given spot, sometimes it's necessary to set the damping adjuster too.

As Jambos says, a manual will help you with this, and give you specific data as to what needs to fit exactly where.

Yeah like the man says

Cheers
Ben

Thanks Ben for your reply - (Front Fork Oil Change on a Cagiva Raptor 650). You are pretty much spot on. I believe there is a nut below the top cap which I need to loosen to get the cap off. You're right in that there's no preload to worry about. I can follow the steps I have to take except bleeding the cartridge - How do I do that please??

A workshop manual is available but at a cost of nearly £50!! and there's little info of any sort on the net too.

Any other info you can email will be greatly appreciated.

MAIL ME AT: foxclarke54@yahoo.co.uk

Many Thanks
Graham