Trackday project K3

It has the K4 subframe

[DarrenSV650S]

K3's aren't black and don't have the S on the tank. They have Suzuki

[Redmist]

Can anybody confirm that a standard brake lever / master cylinder setup will work with the racing style brake lines. I.e. a seperate line from the cylinder to each caliper?

Yeah mate you're lever/master cylinder is fine, the bit which changes is the banjo bolt.
You'll need a double banjo bolt that you'll generally get with a raceline kit

So ATM you've got:


With the two lines you use one of these instead:

[Redmist]

Thanks owenski, looks straight forward enough. I also read on the minitwins site that the "split" for the front brake lines must be above the lower yoke, I guess this still conforms with that!

I'm not familiar with the ruling as I don't compete but yeah this would certainly be above the lower yoke... Unless something is going seriously wrong with your journey/race

[Redmist]

Anybody know if RV Racing are still active? I emailed them regards the rear subframe but no answer as yet.
http://www.rvracing.co.uk/sv6501.html

[yorkie_chris]

I would leave it as stock-ish as possible for the moment, so leave the plastics off but don't bother butchering on any track fairings or new subframes or seat units etc. until you've had it out a few times.

Lines, just get "race" setup lines, for road/TD or race as they're by far the least hassle solution.


Forks to stay within minitwin rules you can do what you want but they must not be modified to allow for further external adjustment.

Commonly, springs/springs + emulators or less commonly a full cartridge conversion (not many people can do this within rules).

Also I would leave the induction standard, when you want to go further do the whole hog, full system and remap and dyno time. No half measures or you just waste money now you could spend for actual gains later.

Same with raising links, they don't do the rear linkage progression curve any good. One of the later ninja shocks is about spot on for length so you don't need to mess with it.

Where are you racing/based?

[flymo]

I may have a few race parts hanging around at home, I hadn't got around to posting them for sale. Crash bungs, race dash, various other bits and bobs I think.

[Redmist]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

I would leave it as stock-ish as possible for the moment, so leave the plastics off but don't bother butchering on any track fairings or new subframes or seat units etc. until you've had it out a few times.

Lines, just get "race" setup lines, for road/TD or race as they're by far the least hassle solution.


Forks to stay within minitwin rules you can do what you want but they must not be modified to allow for further external adjustment.

Commonly, springs/springs + emulators or less commonly a full cartridge conversion (not many people can do this within rules).

Also I would leave the induction standard, when you want to go further do the whole hog, full system and remap and dyno time. No half measures or you just waste money now you could spend for actual gains later.

Same with raising links, they don't do the rear linkage progression curve any good. One of the later ninja shocks is about spot on for length so you don't need to mess with it.

Where are you racing/based?

I have a set of Goodridge "Race" lines coming for the front, is Dot 4 still recommended or 5 / 5.1 better?

I've only got a new air filter to replace the tired existing one, so apart from maybe a lighter exhaust that'll be all for engine mods.

Can you define what is meant by "later ninja shocks" mine is a 06/07. is that long enough?

I'm based in Bridlington east yorks, trackdays initially will be at Cadwell park.
Racing is probably a season or two down the line!