Factory Pro shift star kit

Originally Posted by weecorey

couple of people told me SV's were common for this.

It certainly was a problem with the curvy's and I had to fit one, but the K6 hasnt given any probs...... yet!

Did you check all the linkage after the off at Cookstown?

Originally Posted by yvo6

It certainly was a problem with the curvy's and I had to fit one, but the K6 hasnt given any probs...... yet!

Did you check all the linkage after the off at Cookstown?

I had the same probs last year Yvonne, its a pain in the **** but I put up with it on the circuits. Dont fancy hitting a false neutral or not being able to select a gear in a road race at a road end though, i'd be through the hedge! Might be what happend at cookstown, but that happend so fast its hard to know, one of the guys after the accident asked me did I hit a false neutral.

I did notice that your gear linkage (the one on the splined gear shaft) sits futher out than mine from the frame, your linkage seems to have a slight off set where as mine is straight which meens my link rod from my rearset is touching the frame. Maybe this isn't helping things?

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by yvo6

It certainly was a problem with the curvy's and I had to fit one, but the K6 hasnt given any probs...... yet!

Did you check all the linkage after the off at Cookstown?

They changed the shift star to the similar shape to a factorypro one after K5

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

You sure all linkage is healthy and working?

K5 onwards has same parts as factorypro anyway.

They are not the same - put them side by side and grab calipers and a mike.
They certainly don't work the same.

I just replaced 05 star and spring with a Factory Pro star and spring in a dl650 and the customer was amazed at the improvement over the late model Suzuki shift parts.

Marc

[CB500Racer]

Did you check the dogs teeth on the gears when you had the engine apart, as they will round off, you have too look closely as it only takes a slight wearing of the edges to start causing the cogs to not engage completely. This is made worse by going up the gears without the clutch when racing. Quick shifters make it even worse. The 3rd gear is usually the most worn.

John

I was thinking - about quickshifters causing dog damage -
A quickshifter with the kill duration set too low might do damage to the dogs because the power came back on before the shift mechanism fully rotated the shift drum to get to where the shift forks slid the gears over and fully engaged the dogs n slots?

We use 2 guys to set qs kill duration on the dyno. Guy number 1 to test the shifting and guy number 2 empirically deriving the best duration based on guy number 1's feedback, all the while throwing in spurious kill duration values to keep guy number 1 honest.
Doing it that way gets it better than +/- a couple ms resolution.

But most of the race bikes we check are kinda "off".

Marc Salvisberg

[johnnyrod]

I always seem to say this after someone has had an off, but have you checked that the circlip on the shift rod has not been displaced from its groove? The rod that goes into the crankcase and has the shifter plate on the clutch end. Where it emerges from the crankcase near the front sprocket, there is a groove and circlip to prevent it being able to slid inwards (rightwards as you sit on the bike) and disengaging from the shifter, followed by hitting the clutch basket. Hopefully you're with me! Because the circlip is a tight-ish fit on the shaft when outside of the groove, then it doesn't just slop back and forth, so it isn't immediately apparent.