Swingarm bearing removal

[maviczap]

How do you remove the bearings. I don't have any special tools, just sockets and the usual stuff.

Any quick tips. This is my spare and it's going to be powder coated.

Ta

B*tch of a job. I shaped a screwdriver tip so it had a lip on it and introduced it to mr hammer.

Try to get a pin punch , as with removal of all bearings it is best to tap "lightly" on the outside race all around the race in a "compass" pattern , Tap North , Tap South , East , West . The bearing should ease out . If you whack the bejabbers out of it you can shatter a race , if you hit the inside race you can pop it and the bearings out of the outer . Doing too much tappy on one side can "Kick" the bearing over and damage the surface area of the part it is sat in . Just some General removal tips there for your consideration

Just noticed that you said it is going to be powder coated as well , so make sure they mask off any surfaces that are having a bearing sat in them , the powder coating will often be too thick for the bearing to slide back in place and forcing the bearing in will crack some of the coating off . They probably already know this from experience

[maviczap]

Thanks for the tip, because it's off EBAY I don't know what the condition of the bearings are, so I might fit some new ones just to be sure.

The place I'm taking it to has experience of doing bikes, but I don't think I'll be taking any chances with the masking off. I bought a sub frame on evilbay which had been powder coated, but all the threads hadn't been masked off, so it was a right struggle getting some of the bolts in.

cheers

Originally Posted by maviczap

I bought a sub frame on evilbay which had been powder coated, but all the threads hadn't been masked off, so it was a right struggle getting some of the bolts in.

cheers

This is where a Tap and Die set comes in Handy but it`s better to mask it off as you dont want to chip the coating .

[maviczap]

H'mm my cheapo tap and die set didn't help much, but lots of lube and carefully working the bolts through each hole worked out fine. Once I'd cleaned the threads out, I used new bolts in each location. Stainless of course.

No stripped threads or cross threaded bolts, but it's tough stuff

Originally Posted by maviczap

Thanks for the tip, because it's off EBAY I don't know what the condition of the bearings are, so I might fit some new ones just to be sure.

General tips for bearing Health are as follows .

Are they free spinning ?
Put your finger inside the inner race and rotate bearing back and forth .
Is it Notchy feeling ?
Any evidence of Rust ?
Is the Bearing Rattly ?
Some Bearings have a little bit of play in them but if it feels excessive then best to change them .

I have changed hundreds of bearings over the years on various bits of machinery and have been constantly surprised at how some bearings have lasted as long as they have in their condition . A swingarm bearing goes through quite a lot of stress but due to it`s location it can be badly affected by the elements . I am sure there are more checks and advice out there but these are just a quick generalisation . All the above checks I have listed can be done in 10 seconds outright to help you reach a decision on whether a bearing is fit for purpose

[maviczap]

From the quick check and feel they seem ok, I'll have a better idea once I get them out.

This is where i'm taking the few bits to get powder coated.
http://www.ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/index.html

I quite like the chrome effect finish that they used on this petrol tank for my swinging arm and torque arm.
Attachment 2679

But I might have it done in a satin black with polished end caps, and some stainless chain adjuster plates which I've got. I'll make my mind up once I've seen these colours in the flesh. Although a polished swingarm with a clear powder coat is another option.

Decisions decisions decisions