Curvy starting problems

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Goldy69

Yes I will investigate this. Do you think this could effect how the bike runs at all?

Yes, because the more load you put on battery the more the RR has to supply and the larger the voltage drop will be, so brake light and indicators drawing more current may cause voltage fluctuation on top of the already low voltage that is not keeping battery charged.

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=236251&page=2

follow link in 'series regulator' post on this thread and it states that voltage drops
as revs rise on standard ( shunt ) RR

[embee]

Yes, as said by others, it is quite normal for the voltage to drop "slightly" as revs rise, but it should only be a couple of tenths of a volt or so. I find with the MOSFET R/Rs it tends to be slightly more stable with varying revs and loads.

A good robust battery and connections will affect how the electrical/electronic systems operate. More modern systems will have significantly more attention paid to common earth points, you will find there will be a central "reference" point where most of the critical components will all have a dedicated earth (neg) wire returning. This is done to ensure as far as possible that voltage drops will not affect how sensors and ECUs etc work. Relying on earth returns through steering head bearings etc are definitely out for modern systems.

If you provide a good stable power supply, both from the alternator and from the battery, it will only help how it runs.

[Goldy69]

Thanks for the info, that was an interesting for me to read. I'm not too sure why the idle battery voltage increased so much by directly wiring the R/R to the battery. There was only 0.4 ohms resistance on the standard wiring so good continuity as expected, or should it be even lower?

[SV650rules]

Whenever I get another car, one of the first things I do is run a heavy cable from battery negative to the engine block ( 25mm2 or thereabouts or one of these purpose made braids ) https://www.halfords.com/motoring/ba...in-165357.html

Otherwise the 'earth' or ' negative common' runs from battery to bodywork and then on opposite side of engine bay you get another cable from body to engine block. Both the OEM connections are from copper or brass lug to steel of bodywork and are subject to electrolytic corrosion - so I bypass those for purposes of engine starting current.

Plugs and other connections in wiring are always a source of problems and higher resistance than a continuous cable, so the fewer there are or the better you look after them to stop corrosion the better.