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14-08-05, 07:16 AM | #1 |
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Sore wrists
About a year ago I suffered from RSI in my wrist from working on PC’s, which a short break sorted out.
I have started doing longer journeys on my 2000 SV650s and have started to get a similar problem in my right wrist. Are there any suggestions as to what I can to try and avoid this happening? No wan*ing jokes please |
14-08-05, 08:00 AM | #2 | |
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Re: Swore wrists
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On a serious note, the only remedies I can suggest is to hold the tank tight with your knees and to take off the pressure from your wrists by using your back (if you don't suffer from back problems). Say, for the last few months I have been suffering from a shoulder injury (tennis) which often gets so bad that I can't operate the TV remote (tragedy!) but it does not stop me from riding my bike. On the other hand if your problem is due to the twisting of the throttle (which it probably is) then I don't really see what can be done. Maybe you could find a garage that would switch the clutch and throttle? |
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14-08-05, 08:19 AM | #3 |
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Hi matey!
I sympathise; have carpal tunnel syndrome in both wrists (fractured 'em both in a 'Fizzie vs Transit' incident )and found the riding position on my curvy aggravated them terribly. I eventually went for bar risers which has hepled significantly. I use a throttle rocker on long journeys which takes some strain off the wrist. Next on the list is a quick action throttle. There have been posts here on the forum suggesting a 2003 Yamaha R6 throttle tube is a straight swap and gives full throttle in 1/5 of a turn. You could also go for a top yoke conversion from the un-faired SV650N, although I'm not too sure what bars you will need to prevent interference with the fairing. Good luck, Rich |
14-08-05, 10:49 AM | #4 |
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if its a lot of miles on the motorway I find leaning forward and resting on the tank automatically bends my arms and takes the pressure off my wrist.
that and breaks every hour. |
14-08-05, 11:02 AM | #5 |
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Thanks.
I think its down to the weight I put on it. I have been riding a naked Fazer 600 with renthal bars and could go for 2h + with no problems. The turn on the throttle is long but its not often I open it fully. I think if I could add a little height to the bars I may solve the problem, but the fairing does limit what I could do. I know renthal only do bars for the SV1000 |
14-08-05, 11:12 AM | #6 |
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Higher bars is the answer I feel.
It is an option to put them on your s model but I think some mods are needed to the bodywork.Or just get a naked one as they are so much more exclusive.
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14-08-05, 01:47 PM | #7 |
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get a bike which is a little more comfortable like a DL650 V-strom or even a ZZR600
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14-08-05, 02:33 PM | #8 |
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I suffer with Rheumatoid Arthritis (RA) in both my hands so can sympathise with the pain you're going through. When I've ridden for half an hour my hands kill me and swell so you can't even see my knuckles.
I tend to try and sit upright gripping with my knees taking some of the pressure off of them.... I'm one for leaning too much on my arms. If on the motorway, like Lyn said,.. I tend to squash my boobs on the tank lean forward more and bend my arms so they are straight with my body... like normal riding position would be if you were riding a bigger sportsbike. When I ride my Triumph I find the position more comfortable than on the SV... saying that, they both have their for's and against's lol. When you know you're going out for a long ride try taking some Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs an hour beforehand. Do you take prescribed medication already? If not it might be worth getting some now your arms/hands/wrists are under alot of pressure. Best of luck. |
14-08-05, 02:52 PM | #9 |
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I've got a 2001 SVS.
2 things have helped a lot. One is to rotate the clutch and brake levers round the bars so that they are more or less aligned with your forearms when seated normally. I found they were too high when set according to the small alignment pip on the bars (as out of the factory) which makes you bend your wrists back to get your fingers on the levers. You may need to move the hose coming off the master-cylinder if it hits the fork, if you just crack the bolt off and tweak the hose then nip it up quickly, you won't need to bleed the brakes. The other is to lower the seat a little. I did this by removing the seat cover and sculpting some of the foam away. I left the front and rear of the foam alone, and scooped about 1" out in the middle in a curve. You feel like you sit "in" the bike not "on" it, and it just helps with the way you put weight on the bars. I didn't need the lowering for height reasons (nearly 6'), but having tried a bike which had it done I realised how much better it felt, much nicer to ride. |
14-08-05, 05:29 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
think Ive found the female equivalent to kwak zzzrs aches |
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