Will an R1 front master cylinder fit?

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by DamoK4

I use my rear brake all the time too. I was taught to use it all the time when slow manoeuvring or crawling along like you said. Although my dad has been riding a long time and he said he rarely ever uses his as he wasn't taught to.

My bike could never do a "stoppy". The brakes aren't poor but they are definitely not good.

EBC sintered HH pads are on the way and Hel lines. The bike seems well maintained, plenty of receipts, but i don't know when the brakes were last looked at. I've recently done an oil and coolant change, filters and brake fluid. It did improve the brakes, but not significantly. I'm just watching videos and reading online now about servicing my calipers. I like learning to do everything for myself, it's all part of the fun for me. I've found a service kit on wemoto for 34 quid to replace everything in the calipers. Is this a bad deal? it's not a lot to know everything is in order but if i'm being ripped off let me know.

Also, without trying to go off topic, when do you get valve clearances etc looked at? Is it something you should just get done when you get a used bike, or are they symptoms or mileage intervals etc. I don't fancy taking that one on myself yet until the garage is built

I can't advise on the service kit as I've not had to use one yet. I've only had my SV just under 3 years( it's a 99 Curvy). My front brake is freaking awesome for a 20+ year old bike

I use the old school method of bleeding my brakes e.g a bit of 6mm tube into a Glass jar a 3rd filled with old Brake fluid( I always keep my old Brake fluid as it's a great paint stripper for small parts if you leave them in it).

As for Valve clearances there's loads of opinions I've seen but one of the best quotes for these bikes was," I bet there's been more SV650 engines screwed up by failed attempts than if they were left alone".

I've also seen posts where people have gone over 100,000 miles and not checked them :O

My 99 only has 24k on it and as I do preemptive oil/filter/coolant and fluid changes unless I hear or feel something wrong with the engine I have no intention of checking the Valve clearances let alone adjusting them.

I never over-rev the engine as I've found no need. Quick slick gear changes between 6,000/7,000 rpm and I'm up to Motorway,"Combat Speed" in no time

These engines just rock

PS

The Transverse mounted V-Twin configuration should not be,"Wheelied" as it starves the Front cylinder of oil and usually causes costly premature engine failure.

[DamoK4]

My 2004 has clocked up about 28k miles i think. Sounds and runs great. Just doesn't wanna stop haha. I will leave the valve stuff. Don't want to spend more than i need to. What are these speed bleeders ive seen people talking about? I will be changing the bleed nipples to stainless ones when i clean the calipers

[SV650rules]

I have used a mityvac vacuum bleeder for many years for our cars and the now the SV, just make sure you keep reservoir topped up while bleeding brakes ...

[DamoK4]

i was just looking at those mityvacs. They had mixed reviews but if you say they fit well on the sv650 i might order one. I bought a throwaway thing from Halfords last time

[DamoK4]

Just realised they are 50 quid. Might be a bit to tight for that

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by DamoK4

i was just looking at those mityvacs. They had mixed reviews but if you say they fit well on the sv650 i might order one. I bought a throwaway thing from Halfords last time

Mityvacs are brilliant on cars because the plastic container they provide is roughly the same capacity as the brake reservoir and as long as you top up the reservoir before starting another wheel you know that when the plastic container is getting full the reservoir is getting empty... The best I ever did was fitting fat 'O' rings around the bleed nipples to stop air being sucked into pipe, but that teflon / PTFE tape used by plumbers around the thread is OK.

The supplied tube was a bit too loose on motorbike nipples but a small jubilee clip sorted it.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by DamoK4

My 2004 has clocked up about 28k miles i think. Sounds and runs great. Just doesn't wanna stop haha. I will leave the valve stuff. Don't want to spend more than i need to. What are these speed bleeders ive seen people talking about? I will be changing the bleed nipples to stainless ones when i clean the calipers

I've seen those speed bleeders but never bothered with them. They could be a good addition but my present nips are fine. On other Motorcycles I did replace worn nips with Hel Stainless ones.

Note: Many a good caliper has been ruined by hamfisted cross threading of nipples so always take extra care when fitting and never force anything.

As for Mighty Vacs etc I've never yet had need of them. I came up with a Trick years ago for priming an M/C to get pressure through.

Have right hand side bleed nipple open ready with Jar as previous.

Top up M/C to full.

Spit on hand and place on top of M/C and press to make a seal and then gently pump the lever and you should feel a slight vacuum form from your palm and the fluid start to flow. Top up M/C before it gets too low repeat/continue then bleed air out as normal for both sides.

I do the Right hand then the left and then the right again and then the left for good measure to make sure there's no air in the system.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by Adam Ef

I thought the "etc" was referring to the caliper too.

This makes sense, calipers would have been a disasterous purchase.

Originally Posted by DamoK4

Just realised they are 50 quid. Might be a bit to tight for that

I use a big syringe and a bit of plastic pipe and feed from the bottom so bubbles can't really accumulate costs about £5. I've done a lot with brakes and am very picky and it's the best way I've found




You do get a bit more feel with the radial but it's not a lot more, in fact I took mine off and am currently using the std sv one, it's fine on road and a little track use and my brakes are very powerful, usually outbraking trackbikes.

What I would do is redo your caliper seals (buy some red rubber grease and new seals -check wemoto), SS braided lines (I got them pretty cheap from Hel), You can buy mastecylinder seal kits too but I wouldn't bother unless you think you have a fault with your cylinder. Take the money you would have put into the radial mastercylinder bling and buy some stiffer fork springs and new fork oil , that will help your braking far more than a radial MCylinder. Hagon progressives will do it, I think they're about £60

And don't forget plenty of copper grease

[Craig380]

A dodge that eliminates the need to remove the bleed nipples and add teflon tape is to wipe a small blob of grease around the base of the nipples before you start the bleeding process, to stop air getting down the threads. Greasy nipples FTW

Also, I've found using white silicone brake grease on the sliding pins makes a big difference. It's a couple of quid from eBay for sachets which will do several brake overhauls. It stays fresh & greasy for years and is kind to the rubber parts.

[DamoK4]

I never thought about changing the springs, it's a good idea though my suspension is a bit bouncy. Unfortunately though I only have a rear stand and nothing to hoist the bike up on so it's not a diy job for me i think. The calipers are getting a complete overhaul, all new seals etc, i've ordered the bits. I will have peave of mind then knowing they are mint. I'll have a look into springs, i know a mechanic who's big into his bikes who lives on my street so i will have a word with him about it. Are the Hagon progressives good? I can buy the bits and see if he wants to fit them for/with me.

I like the idea of gunking up over the threads when bleeding, that saves time.

Filling up the brakes from the calipers with a syringe sounds interesting. I read something about that on here before i will have a look into it. A fiver sounds good to me haha